The
first outpost of this popular Cuban spot wasn't quite 90 miles out, but it was in a location to which perhaps only serious foodies would make the trek. Isolated on a patch of Clybourn near Western and surrounded by gas stations, tire shops and a police HQ, 90 Mile built a fervent following that had excitement high for the opening of their
Logan Square location.
The second shop doesn't disappoint. Housed in a considerably bigger space (the first location was merely a room and a counter), 90 Miles continues to serve up the sandwiches and platters that made the original stand worth the trip. With an expanded dining room and outdoor patio, the Logan Square 90 Miles makes it easier to enjoy the food that brought them so much acclaim.
Vibrant, colorful murals line the exterior walls of the restaurant, and the patio is nearly as big as the structure itself. If you're lucky, you may be able to tuck into your bistec at one of the tables dedicated to dominoes, though once you have your food in front of you, a game of bones may not be a high priority.
The food is great, and you can get started with breakfast sandwiches as early as 8 a.m. The hefty, wedge cut sandwiches (from the breakfast ham, cheese and onion, to a lunch or dinner roast pork sandwich with romaine lettuce, grilled onions, sweet plantain and garlic sauce) all range from about $4-$7. None of the entrees are over $10, with offerings as diverse as bistec, chicken, beef, and even tofu and veggie dinners.
Currently, only wine and beer are available from the bar. You may want finish off the night with some traditional Cuban coffee, but if you're uninitiated, be warned: it's extremely sweet, and the taste might just be strong enough to transport you 90 miles away.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman