Should you find yourself near the Rosemont L and faced with the prospect of dinner at Hooter's, upgrade to a meal at RAM Brewery. Sure, it's a chain—in this case, sibling to West Coast RAMs, Shenanigans and Humperkinks, among others—but at least it's one that pours 22-ounce drafts.

The beer is the highlight, so you'll want to start your meal with a fat glass of it; 18-ounce pours are available for weaker constitutions. Though some non-RAM brews are offered (the wait staff quirkily avoid talking about them) there's really no reason to go that route. You might not feel too classy ordering the Buttface Amber Ale, but the caramel beer is worth the small indignity. The Total Disorder Porter and Big Red Ale, an American-style IPA, cut the mustard, too.

Nothing says dinner in the suburbs like a hulking burger, and RAM's Extreme Stadium is just that, a one-pound burger topped with bacon, cheddar and sauteed mushrooms. Out to please the masses, you'll also find fish n chips, buffalo chicken sandwiches, Tuscan meatloaf and lemon hefeweizen chicken. Indulge all the meal through: The Colossal Sizzling Bread Pudding is more a loaf than a piece.

The space is dressed in the same vein as Bennigan's, albeit with animal heads on the wall. Plenty of tables and large booths cut down the wait on the busiest of nights; TVs scattered throughout and a giant screen in the bar keep Chicago's teams close at hand.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz