This is one of those places where you've got to just ignore the tacky, outdated decor and revel instead in the marvelous fare. From its variety of pastas to its massive portion sizes, everything from Ambrogio's kitchen is authentically Italian. It only takes one visit for the place to sink its hooks into your belly – take a note of faces in the room, stop in next week (and the next, and the next) and you're likely to see the same hungry crew. You can't blame them for wanting more, especially when there are enough choices on the menu to try something new each time. Favorites include handmade gnocchi, baked mostaccioli and spaghetti with Ambrogio's signature spicy sauce.

Large groups should shoot straight for the restaurant's pizza menu, which offers every pie under the sky from thin crust and double dough to pan-style and stuffed crust. Signature pies include barbecue chicken, Hawaiian, vegetarian and the "everything." Additional toppings can be added for a small fee.

Stop in during the week and take advantage of Ambrogio's daily specials like the rib-eye steak sandwich on Tuesdays or the all you can eat spaghetti on Wednesdays, $7.50 and $9.95, respectively. Spend $10 or more on takeout between 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. and Ambrogio's will bring it straight to your door (a small delivery fee applies).

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden