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Absinthe in Body, Present in Spirit

Now that the Green Fairy is legal, local bartenders are using it to shake up some devilish little drinks.

Monday Apr 14, 2008.     By Stacy Warden

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Fewer spirits have caused as much uproar as absinthe. Banned in the early 1900s, this herbal brew quickly became a coveted possession. Like other drugs, it was vastly popular with artists and writers, many of whom claimed to experience intense hallucinations from the stuff. It was once even used for medicinal purposes, until authorities were convinced it was more the cause than the cure for many illnesses. Picasso, Van Gogh and Hemingway may or may not have gone crazy from drinking it, but one thing remains certain: They would've been mad for these sinister absinthe-infused cocktails, now that it's legal in the U.S. again.

Sazerac at Le Passage Discotheque and The Drawing Room
This concoction dates back to the Civil War, but its classic flavors make it a modern-day delight. First, the absinthe is louched (mixed and clouded with cool mineral water) in a glass; the water is then swirled and poured out, leaving the interior of the glass coated in the booze. Next comes the rye, followed by a dash of bitters; mixologist Charles Joly uses Peychaud's Bitters because he likes the authentic touch it adds, explaining that the Sazerac was actually a Peychaud original.

Joly whips up a few tempting absinthe originals of his own, but he recommends sticking with the classics or sipping absinthe the old-fashioned way. The Sazerac is only available in the Drawing Room's classy little culinary lounge, but for $400 you can take the traditional sipping a step further with bottle service in the adjoined La Passage Discotheque.

The Green Monster at Sepia
Sepia bartender Peter Vestinos came up with this little fright. His inspiration for the name? "I'm a Red Sox fan," he says and adds that it's also a play on The Green Fairy, absinthe's most notorious moniker. This monstrous drink—served in a round cocktail glass—is a combination of gin, absinthe, freshly squeezed lime and just a drip of honey. The gin complements absinthe's fennel and anise flavors, and the infusion of lime and honey create a slightly sweet balance.

While baseball may have been Vestinos' main muse, you won't be downing the Green Monster in the presence of flat-screens or scoreboards here. With its muted hues, vintage decor and well-dressed clientele, Sepia is a far cry from any sports bar.

Purple Haze at Lumen
Absinthe meets vodka in this palate-pleasing libation. Throw in an ounce of creme de cacao and a splash or two of pineapple juice, and you're days of drinking absinthe on its own are over. The marriage of absinthe's licorice flavor and chocolate might seem a bit strange, but the combination makes for one seriously decadent drink.

Although this concoction skirts the sweeter side of things, it still packs a serious punch—and it's just as pretty to look at as Lumen's chic urban decor. The upscale lounge makes minimalism look glam with its open space, low-to-the-floor seating and color-changing mood lighting.

The Chadwick at Nacional 27
You know you're a regular when your favorite bar names a drink after you. That's the case with local artist Chadwick, who never strayed from his drink of choice at Nacional. A pomegranate-, ginger- and chili-infused mojito, The Chadwick remains true to its original recipe, save for one sinister twist: The glass is now laced and rimmed with absinthe.

The slight hint of anise mixes surprisingly well with the cocktail's fruitier ingredients. A stick of sugarcane peeps out from the glass; use it to stir, lick or simply admire its beauty in this painstakingly sweet drink. Pair it up with something spicy from Nacional's Latin-fueled menu while you take in the equally delicious decor.

The 2-2 at The Violet Hour
The 2-2—a sweet mix of absinthe, Aperol and lemon juice—goes down far more smoothly than the story behind it. The tale goes something like this: Back in the early 1900s, Jean Lanfray, a peasant living in Switzerland, went home after a long day of work (and an equally long day of drinking) and brutally murdered his wife and children. During his binge, Lanfray downed a few ounces of absinthe and because of the bad rap it already had, authorities blamed the murders almost entirely on the spirit.

Allegedly, Lanfray would drink from two in the morning to two in the morning—you get the idea. Violet Hour bartender Stephen Cole dreamed up the 2-2 based on the horrific story. It's exactly the type of thing you'd expect to drink in this contemporary speakeasy: It's not too sweet and strangely seductive.