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The Art of Drinking Locally
Try these Midwest-made artisan spirits that won't wreak havoc on your carbon footprint.
Tuesday Apr 22, 2008.     By K. Tighe
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

Templeton Rye goes down smooth
photo: courtesy of Templeton Rye
Farmers markets will soon return, as will my vow to eat only seasonal, local, organic produce. Becoming more aware of what's on my plate, where it comes from, and how it was grown is a noble undertaking, but it seems a little hypocritical to be soap-boxing the merits of a sustainable lifestyle between throwing back shots of Jameson. Surely, there must be some booze out there that won't wreak havoc on my carbon footprint. Turns out, the Midwest is rife with artisan spirits.

North Shore Distillery Distiller's Gin No. 6 at Randolph Wine Cellars ($27.99)
Gin. Whether you love it or hate it, you'll dig North Shore's unique take on the classic spirit. Far from a heavy pine swallow, Distiller's Gin No. 6 is a complex nectar of aromatic tones; even amateur palates can get behind these herbal notes of lavender, cinnamon, cloves and classic juniper. The result? A full-bodied, multi-faceted gin that's heavy enough on character to rock the traditional martini, yet harmonious enough to excite your tonic. Although the award-winning spirit packs a 90-proof punch, it's smooth enough that you might not notice—until it's too late.

Templeton Rye at UnCork-It ($36.99)
Now that Prohibition's finest hooch is finally being hocked legally, partying like Capone has never been easier. It's no wonder that Chicago's favorite booze-smuggler had a weakness for Templeton Rye (he reportedly even arranged for a case of it to be smuggled onto Alcatraz); while most spirits sold under the Volstead Act bit like gasoline, this single-barrel malt was lovingly crafted by a small group of Iowan farmers. Hardly a bathtub brew, the spicy spirit was smooth enough to earn the nickname "The Good Stuff" back when that really meant something. These days, there are plenty of decent nips around, but Templeton's back-story gives it a depth that no other distillery can touch.

DiVine Vodka at Sam's Wine and Spirits ($34.99)
So what does it take for an artisan vodka to dethrone the holy high-shelf trio of Belvedere, Ketel One and Grey Goose? According to Chicago Magazine, which did a piece last year pitting luxury vodkas against each other with DiVine coming out on top, just a few grapes do the trick. Hailing from Michigan's Round Barn Winery, DiVine Vodka has been sweeping taste tests since the first frosted glass bottles emerged from the distillery's copper pot still. The smooth vino-inspired spirit was the brainchild of Chicagoan David Otis, who approached the brewery with a wild idea: Screw the grains and potatoes, and make a silky luxury vodka from hand-picked Michigan grapes. One of only a few grape-based vodkas in the world, DiVine is the only one that's estate-bottled.

Black Star Spirit of Apple brandy at Binny's ($24.99)
Have a crush on apple liqueur? There's no need to give up that great cider flavor just because the weather's getting better. For the quintessence of the best apple varieties around—from McIntosh to Jonagold, Rhode Island Greening to Winesap—look no further than Michigan's Black Star Farms. Hand-crafted in small batches, barrel-aged for four years and bottled one barrel at a time, Spirit of Apple brandy pays homage to the craft history of this patriotic tipple with a whopping 80-proof. Perfect for sipping on after dinner, this brandy swings big with smoky oak profiles, crisp fruit tones and a big, warming bite.

More Midwestern spirits to look for:

Duchess Brandy at New Holland Brewing Company ($25)
New Holland gets plenty of love for its brewskis, but the Michigan brewery's fruit-based Duchess Brandy is well worth the drive. With a profile that's astonishingly similar to vodka, Duchess is available in a whole array of flavors (orange, raspberry, lemon, vanilla and pepper), making it an ideal pairing for any dessert. Each reveals a smooth and balanced flavor, with crisp fruit tones—a perfect brandy for people who hate brandy. You should be able to find it at most stores that carry New Holland beers.

Silver Tree Small Batch Vodka at Leopold Bros.($40)
So you're the type who doesn't like to smell, feel or taste your booze? It's time to pull up a stool at this Ann Arbor distillery and learn a thing or two. Balanced and smooth with nuance to burn, Silver Tree Vodka is an award-winning blend of potatoes, malted barley and summer wheat. Crafted in tiny batches, house-bottled and even numbered by hand, it's one artisan spirit with major DIY cred. Binny's is known to carry Leopold products, but it would be best to call ahead.