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A timeless bar formula gets a glossy sheen.

Wednesday Jul 21, 2004.     By Patrick Sisson

Bars + Clubs Feed

Rockit Bar & Grill

Age: 21+

Cover: None

Dress: Though a place with custom pool tables that’s ringed with large TVs doesn’t scream fashion first, make sure to dust off your shoulders and look sharp. Like the decor, most of the fashions on display are a cohesive blend of rich and relaxed. Think designer jeans and a nice dress shirt for guys and something shiny and stylish for women.

Best way to get there: The Red Line stop at Grand is only minutes away, but if you’re driving, valet parking is always available at the front door.

Vibe: Rockit Ranch Production partners Billy Dec and Brad Young, already nightlife impresarios who’ve answered plenty of last calls, have decided to heed Chicago’s demand for an upscale place to slow down. With Rockit Bar & Grill, they’ve taken a timeless bar formula (lots of space, plenty of entertainment, and stick-to-your-guts food) and covered it with a glossy sheen. The tall ceilings and handmade leather chairs create a lively loft party atmosphere, encouraging you to relax and kick back as long as you can afford a few rounds of cocktails.

Quick tour: Designer Nate Berkus, an Oprah Winfrey Show regular and widely recognized design guru, was presented with a cavernous loft in River North to update. The result is a bi-level space with huge ceilings that’s bathed in a dark, creamy brown. The bottom “grill” level, though bisected by rows of seats that gaze at floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor patio, draws attention inside with modern furnishings and slightly dark, enticing interior. Upstairs has more of a warehouse feel, with a bank of custom pool tables, an island bar and immense flat screen plasma TVs straight out of an episode of “Cribs.”

Crowd: Drawing in a particular mix of River North neighbors and Chicago’s designer class, Rockit Bar & Grill attracts people that look lifted from the glossy pages of “Chicago Social.” But due to the neighborhood and lack of cover, it never really exudes exclusivity.

Night to go: Weekends will be packed, but the best night to go is probably one where you’re craving some drunk food. The late-night menu is served until 1:30 a.m., and the tasty gourmet bar food is a greasy-without-being-gross blessing.

Claim to fame: Rockit Ranch has finally found its homestead.

You’ll feel like you’re in: A well-planned and well-attended party in someone’s lavish loft. Though the prices are a bit on the expensive side and Rockit does have all the modern gadgets and styles, there is an underlying homey feel to it.

Music genre: Think Q101 circa 1993, the classic rock station that will be popular 10 years from now (and will still be playing a lot of Nirvana). It makes sense, since every other aspect of the bar takes a forward-thinking approach to being comfortable.

Beyond the barstool: The menu at Rockit is full of everyday items with a twist, like curried onion rings, BD’s sweet potato fries and grilled asparagus with shaved ham. You can even go the signature route and have the indulgent $19 Rockit Burger, a kobe beef burger with foie gras and black truffle. Hip to the late-night crowd, the menu wisely includes a bar food section. Think of it as a drunk’s version of Willy Wonka’s candy factory: You can get everything from white bean hummus or soft pretzels with mustard to chicken wings or a frozen candy bar.

On the shelves: The cocktails are equally eclectic and delicious. Sip on a caramel apple martini or a drink that tastes remarkably like a Girl Scout Thin Mint cookie. High marks go to the Effen Lemonade and Rockit Punch, refreshing choices for a warm summer. If you just want a brew, a bottle will set you back $4 or more.