"Dependable" may be a dull word to assign to an upscale bistro that serves food until 3 a.m., but like a good friend, Bijan's is there for you 365 days a year at almost any hour of the day. Whether you need a place to meet with friends for lunch, a cocktail to de-stress after work or a meal of chilled shrimp (served in a martini glass, no less) after partying into the early morning hours, this neighborhood bistro is open for it all.

The starters take the form of glammed up hors d'oeuvres (I love the baked brie with grapes, honey and almonds), and the rest of the menu follows suit. Try the portabello mushroom tartine with balsamic roasted onions, goat cheese and sun-dried tomato mayo, or Bijan's burger, one of the better burgers I've had. (If the weather is nice, enjoy it on the outdoor patio with views of bustling State Street.) Others worth sampling: the grilled blue cheese-crusted filet mignon and the bananas foster with vanilla bean ice cream and rum sauce. And because nicoise salad calls for something fancier than cola, belly up to the bar for a glass of wine or a cocktail.

Weekend brunch is leisurely. If you had a rough night and need a little hair of the dog, bloody marys and mimosas are on call to have alongside your steel-cut Irish oatmeal, eggs, omelets, Belgian waffles and the like.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Albrey Nuss