Stuff a pheasant with pistachios, crust it with coriander and call me satisfied. Under the hand of executive chef Giuseppe Tentori, Boka has reinvented itself in the areas that count—cuisine and service. The stuffed pheasant joins a menu of internationally influenced, contemporary-American preparations like annatto-infused carrots and sea scallops drizzled with edamame puree. Order a bottle of red wine from Lebanon under the heading "Off the Beaten Path" on the otherwise standard wine list, and your meal will rival the global harmony of a United Colors of Benetton ad.

Located in the same Lincoln Park neighborhood as Tentori's long-time mentor/boss Charlie Trotter's restaurant, Boka strives to match Trotter's high-end service. Even if a bit staunch, the attention diners receive—from constantly having a full glass of water to getting bread on demand from waiters in starched shirts—comes across as charming. Or perhaps that air comes from Giuseppe himself, who often steps into the dining room to chat with customers, reaping deserved praise for his well-executed dishes. The Dwell-magazine-inspired interior remains contemporary, which suits the freshness of the entire transformation.

Whether camping out for a five-course tasting or stopping by after the theater for dessert, you'll notice the detail in every nip and tuck of Boka's menu. Even the caramel apple tatin—thin apple slices layered like a lotus flower baked atop a sliver of pastry—proves a delicate tailor's finest work.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Maria Raynes