The food at Evanston's Campagnola is much like owner Steve Schwartz's personality: fresh, fun, humble and uncomplicated. It's good, no-frills food that showcases the ingredients and the skill of the chef over the latest trend.

Campagnola is open for dinner only, which just feels right for the space. It's romantic, but clearly welcomes back those who had their first date here, went on many more and now bring their families in for special dinners. The entire place is washed in softness without being sentimental. A point of real pride for the owner is that most of his staff has been with the business for nearly 10 years. They, like his regulars, are a sort of extended family that he seems to value immensely.

While dinner options change regularly (based on what fresh produce is available), here are a few examples of the tantalizing and tempting tastes you'll find: pappardelle Bolognese veal with pork and pancetta ragu, parmigiano-reggiano ($19), rigatoni Italian fennel sausage with tomato, rapini ($18) and pork scallopini polenta with asparagus, peas, vermouth reduction ($22).

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Christy Bonstell