Even though Chaise Lounge feels like South Beach, don't expect your server to show up shirtless, sporting a hemp puka-shell necklace and linen pants. But if you do go when it's warm, take advantage of its alfresco options: It not only boasts a sidewalk patio but a rooftop one, too, and the dining room's windows slide open to let in a breeze.

With white padded walls and light leather chairs contrasting against dark wood tables, the space exudes an airiness quality that perfectly matches the delicate plates.

Chaise brought Chef Cary Taylor on board in spring of 2008 to infuse its menu with seasonal ingredients. He places a heavy emphasis on seafood, with starters like a seared scallop served atop a bed of dainty sea beans, a swipe of beet paste decorating the pristine white plate. Heartier app options include a grownup take on a chicken nugget: A croquette comes stuffed with jamon Serrano, garlic and Swiss cheese that oozes out of the center. Entrees range from salmon with purple cauliflower ($18) to fall-off-the-bone-tender beef short rib ($20). Somewhat surprisingly (it is sorta a bar, after all), the desserts here are insanely good; the cranberry-studded semifreddo, baked gouda in a puff pastry, and the chewy banana bread pudding doused in caramel are all worth going back for.

The drink list includes extensive wine offerings, classic cocktails and custom libations like the frozen Lychee Mango ($9), a mix of Malibu Coconut Rum, lychee and mango puree. (It's like a naughty smoothie.) The rooftop, with its white booths and low tables tucked away by white curtains, is the perfect setting to knock back a few.

Chaise couldn't be more different from Iggy's, the space's former inhabitant, and definitely caters to the changing face of Wicker Park. If you're part of the younger, PBR-drinking set, you'll probably want to stay away from this place...at least until payday. Then, come here to blow your hard-earned cash on a cocktail before hitting up your favorite dive.

Centerstage Reviewer: Maya Henderson