No doubt about it, Gaslight is a terrific and classy sports bar (Go Buckeyes!), with six flat-screen TVs, great old-fashioned lamps, fantastically comfortable leather seats, and a selection of beer and wine that will satisfy the snobbiest palate. But we recommend that you go for the food. This watering hole serves up amazingly tasty fare.

The salads are built around the freshest greens available, and the sandwiches (burgers, chicken, fish, and veggie variations are all available) come with your choice of three kinds of fries: house-seasoned, plain-salted, or Chimichurri, an Argentinian version that incorporates olive oil and basil. You’ll also find more substantial entrees, which are basic but flavorful, like Australian lamp chops, pork chops, seared tuna, and signature steak. If you have any room at the end of your meal, don’t even ask what desserts are available. Just order the skillet cookie. One server says, “I hate dessert, but I love that skillet cookie.”

Speaking of the servers, they’re possibly the friendliest and speediest in the city. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more eager and attentive crew. Carry-out is an option, but you can’t take home the skillet cookie in a box, due to the ice cream component. The very best time to get your Gaslight on is weekend lunch, when the college crowd is still asleep and grown-ups, even those with kids, can enjoy the place, quiet and clean, all to themselves.

Centerstage Reviewer: Abigail Derecho