Proving yet again that the Northwest Side isn't all about blue-collar bars, Hortex steps out of the box bringing European zing to the Dunning neighborhood. Just a block west of the Harlem Irving Plaza and Rolling Stones Records, Hortex shares its name with Poland's well-known version and presents the desired ice cream desserts that sell there.

Sexy and stylish, the room’s feng shui compliments the crowd. Not sure you measure up to the statuesque Czechs and Poles in designer jeans rocking Hollywood hairstyles? Check yourself out in a collection of mirrors, of all shapes and sizes, hanging along a panoramic wall dripped in scarlet paint. Don’t worry if you’re not the fairest of them all, baseball caps and flip-flops still get you service, your friendly server Viola Kowalska pledges.

The interior design continues with sunken lounges plunked beneath abstract art hanging on exposed brick. Track lights zip to and fro and candles flicker, while lamps worthy of an appraisal on Antiques Roadshow glow. Assorted knickknacks and fresh flowers tastefully conclude the design as '80s pop (Eurythmics and U2) emotes a chill vibe.

Warmer months liven up as the outdoor patio fills with guests gunning sticks. This wood-planked reserve likely serves as the area’s best, fitting 50 people and mimicking the castle-like features inside with armor statues stationed throughout.

Capping the experience comes with dinner and drinks. Kowalska recommends the lip-smacking Hungarian potato pancakes served with spicy beef goulash, cheese and green onions ($12.95). A mile-long cocktail menu includes fun-themed drinks like the Jell-O-Fish, Kiss Mint and Shrek (average $7.50). Or you can keep in tune with the Polish impression and drop back an Okocim on tap ($3.50). Before takeoff, make sure to try the ice cream desserts that made a number out of Poland's chain.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez