Ever notice how the quality of late-night orders at some restaurants differs from the same orders made during peak times? At Martino's, where almost everything is made from scratch, you'll get the same value at midnight you'd get during rush hour. This Sicilian-owned North Park restaurant with an Italian menu has served generations, making it a common meeting ground for teenagers, young couples and retirees.

The space easily accommodates heavy traffic, with six-top tables buffered between spacious booths at right and two-top booths at left upholstered in floral patterns matching the art deco design of the room. Mirrored walls and trims go hand-in-hand with the ceiling fans and a chandelier lighting up a beige room held up by smoke-colored carpeting.

Sadly slow on our stormy Thursday night visit, just two couples braved the buckets of rain and claps of thunder. But Carolyn, our evening server, assures fair-weather evenings bring in larger crowds with one or two celebrating a special occasion.

The menu offers a range of choices and welcomes customers to create their own pastas with a list of sauces and ingredients. Carolyn's been told a time or two that the meat lasagna ($12.75) is the best in the city. Ask her favorite recommendation and she’ll enthusiastically suggest the chicken vesuvio ($15.25).

Post meal, try the sinfully delicious cheesecake drizzled in chocolate and strawberry sauce. One regular manages keeping a trim figure downing two of these per visit after a filling meal. Skipping dessert? Head to the small bar and order your favorite cocktail, average $6. Delivery is available.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez