Nicksons has made some pretty decent moves since its opening. They gave themselves an irresistible hook by installing a flying pig inside the restaurant. It's red and blue, with white wings, and it's tempting to read into it. Is it a symbol of the American ability to pull off the impossible? A nod to kitsch? Or is it just a goofy piece of art?

Maybe the pig flies over the U.S., making selections and suggestions as to what to include on the menu. Nicksons has a thing for local food as much as it does for regional food, and it loves to celebrate both. The owners are a family bunch, who claim the restaurant is influenced by downtown La Grange itself, especially the abundance found in rural culture.

That abundance is indeed reflected in the portion sizes, but the menu goes a step or two beyond American rural culture into a more eclectic, international place. Offerings such as Cuban sandwiches ($8) make an appearance, as well as entrees like a house-cut Chicago strip steak ($19) and a Carolina shrimp and grits dish served with andoullie sausage ($13).

Nicksons likes its menu and events to reflect seasonal goings on, and offers specials to coincide with Mardi Gras, the Olympics and more.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman