If the restaurant empire of Chef Homaro Cantu was a cassette tape, Otom would be its "B side." As a curious eclectic side project, the restaurant is not as celebrated or vaunted as it's sister, the molecular gastronomy palace Moto, but it's just as inspired.

The lofty interior – featuring exposed brick, orange lacquer accent shelves and resin chairs, mod striped walls that would be at home on a Brooks Brother's tie, and vases capped off by Gerber daisies – is what you might get if a factory loft had a head-on collision with a Design Within Reach store.

The food, like the interior, is both classic and mod. Chef Daryl Nash> starts with comfort food classics such as salad lyonnaise, but substitutes peppery watercress for tired mixed greens and a bacon flavored "egg" for fatty, chewy lardons. His BLT likewise skips the typical crispy bacon, watery lettuce and flimsy tomato in favor of luscious magnificent tender braised pork belly, bright neon romaine puree, and heirloom tomato jam.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant