Spot the tuxedo-clad waiters, dark wood molding and crimson velvety booths at this elegant eatery, and you may feel you've stepped back to, say, 1940. A classic-themed steakhouse in the heart of the Loop's theater district, Petterino's represents an obvious destination for hordes of show-goers. Named after the longtime maitre d' of the swanky Pump Room, Arturo Petterino, the restaurant attempts to recreate the atmosphere of the old-time celebrity haunt (once frequented by stars like Liz Taylor and Frank Sinatra). Caricatures of celebrities cover every inch of wall space, adding to the star intrigue.

It may look like a frou-frou diner, but its portions aren't so delicate. The menu overflows with hearty items that stir the appetite as much as they fuel nostalgia. For lunch, chicken pot pie, pot roast and homemade lasagna are priced $10.95-$13.95. Begin with Irv Kupcinet's Chopped Salad ($6.95), a corn-bacon-avocado medley dedicated to the longtime Sun-Times columnist. Dinner options include seafood, steaks and Italian fare – baked cheese ravioli, bone-in rib-eye steak and veal chops range in price from $15.95-$36.95. And the lemon-glazed salmon served with broccoli florets ($19.95) pairs well with a side of creamed spinach ($6.95).

The menu features an array of classic highballs and original cocktails priced $6.95-$10.75 – the Windy City Martini consists of vodka and blue-cheese-stuffed olives – and big-enough-to-share desserts. Lunch patrons can taste sample portions of desserts for $1.95 each. Some worth trying are the banana-cookie ice cream pie, the strawberry tall cake, the chocolate "applause" cake and, well, everything else.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Jina Hassan