Opening a saloon in the frontier that is west of Western Avenue is a fitting endeavor. The condos thin out, most of the other restaurants are primarily take-out, and the other bars are only serving liquid calories. So when a full-menu, two-room, plasma-TV-on-every-wall enterprise from the owners of Waterhouse, Rebel Bar & Grill and Bluelight opens up, it's a name to be remembered.

The place is low on lighting, but has big bay windows. The tan and red walls with brown tin ceiling may as well be the menu – it's a meat-eater's delight. Appetizers of chili ($4), buffalo chicken rolls ($8), or a "teaser" basket of brisket, pork and Cordis Brothers ribs with biscuits runs for $12. (Don't worry: one of the salads is vegetarian).

The main course is focused on the restaurant's secret weapon – its barbeque sauce. A not-too-sweet, subtly spiced concoction, the condiment can be applied liberally without fear of toothache or need for extra ice water. Try it on the pulled pork sandwich, the BBQ beef briquette, or of course a half or whole slab of ribs ($12 and $19, respectively).

Aside from a good selection of beers (including Delerium Tremens and Goose Island's Matilda), the bar offers a wide variety of summery martinis and mixed drinks (try the Dragonslayer with dragonfruit vodka for $8). If you're looking for a little less frill, the bar also has a big chalkboard of its current whiskey selection (usually a few dozen varieties available).

The bar also keeps a busy schedule of entertainment – half price wings and $6 steins of Miller on Sundays for football, trivia nights on Wednesdays, and a country night on Thursdays, with $12 full slabs and a DJ to get you honky-tonking off the extra calories.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge