Chicago restaurateur extraordinaire Jerry Kleiner (of spots like Carnivale and Gioco) invades the suburbs with Il Poggiolo, a stylish, casual Italian joint located in a former silent movie theater in Hinsdale.

The name translates to "the balcony," and sure enough, there's an overhead balcony in the back of the dining room, seemingly tying the space together. It also emits the smell of tomato sauces and melted cheese into downtown Hinsdale, easily luring hungry souls who are helpless against such olfactory stimulation.

Executive Chef Jim Kilberg has crafted a menu full of "modern interpretations of classic dishes." There's pizza ($11-$14) for those that just like sticking to pies – margherita or mushrooms with tellagio cheese are both fine, tasty selections. Pastas include tortellini with spinach and ricotta and eggplant-filled ravioli, but consider the higher-up entrees, like pan-roasted salmon or seabass for seafood, or wood-fired New York strip and grilled pork chops for the nights when you just want a hunk of meat.

Be sure to study the wine list (containing more than 50 selections from Italy) or indulge in one of the bar's signature cocktails, like the "8th Street Manhattan." Of course, with an Italian meal, dinner is just a prelude to dessert, so finish off with some tiramisu, gelati or chocolate mousse cake.

On the weekends, expect Il Poggiolo to be bustling and loud, the kind of place of that feels both electric and elegant, with gaggles of couples filling each table, sipping on wine. Pictures of Kleiner's world travels are adorned on the walls, a tasteful touch in an altogether warm dining room that dazzles with shades of red and brown – it's suburban charm at its best.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Andy Seifert