A hand-carved 1830s back bar, flickering candelabras and Victorian-period furniture at this elegant dining-bar transport you to the sitting room of a Parisian mansion. Diners can progress to the main room's curtained booths, a hangover from the space's days as Sugar. Symbolist oil paintings and Art Nouveau poster-like murals dress La Pomme Rogue, French for "the red apple," in over-the-top beauty. The same exuberance carries over to chef Jeff Mauro's menu. You'll find caviar served with a mini bottle of Imperia Vodka, garnished West Coast oysters, homemade charcuterie and seared loin of lamb.

Cocktails and bottle service (try a bottle of Port) are as well considered as each of La Pomme's countless other details. Should the beauty and knowledge inherent to the space not bow you over, go for the "apple as temptation" interpretation in Salon Enfer, a lush, pillow-filled space tucked in the rear, La Pomme's very own den of iniquity.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz