Diners with night-vision will appreciate the artful presentation and interior decor of this industrial-meets-plush sushi spot. The lack of light, save for single tea candle at each table and a tentacle-like cluster of bulbs hanging from the ceiling, successfully sets a lounge-style vibe (with the help of down-tempo beats in the background).

However, it's hardly conducive to studying the avocado garnish around the tuna tataki appetizer or the fan of apple slices standing at the tail of the caterpillar roll.

Fortunately, with food this good, the presentation is merely an added bonus. Start off by making a selection from the two-page-long wine, martini and sake list; nearly every wine comes by the glass or bottle, and $10 specialty martinis like the Starfish Martini (with vodka, champagne, lime grape juice and a grape) will appeal to those with a sweet tooth.

Appetizers include teriyaki-glazed skewers of anything from calamari to shitake mushroom, Dynamite in a Shell (baked scallops with green and red peppers in spicy sauce with a quail egg) and various greens. In addition to the standard sushi and sashimi, imaginative maki ranges from Black Dragon (eel over spicy scallop) and Atlantic (spicy salmon over crab) to the mozzarella stick of sushi, the Crunchy Muffy (mozzarella cheese over shrimp tempura). Warm options abound, such as soy- and sake-marinated filet mignon served with potatoes and pan-fried Chilean sea bass.

Much like many of the cavernous restaurants along Randolph Street's restaurant row, Starfish has plenty of space to fill, so you don't need VIP status to get a table at prime time.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jessica Herman