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Taxim

View Map1558 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago
Tel: (773) 252-1558
View Website
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Editorial Review of Taxim

Newbie restaurateur David Schneider gave up the prestige of a Northwestern civil engineering degree for the foodie life, dabbling in private catering for a handful of years before helming this elegant Greek tapas lounge. His job duties include everything but bus boy, claiming ownership, executive chef and designing rights; he even engineers the decor, which includes tasseled throw-pillows and Byzantine empire-inspired lamps hanging from 16-foot ceilings.

Inspired by childhood summer trips to Greece, where he helped extended family produce wine and organic olive oil, Schneider has created a small menu representative of the Greek phrase Politika Kouzina, or "Cuisine of the City." The menu steers away from flaming cheeses and more toward minced goat stuffed inside baby zucchini and eggplant, drizzled in pomegranate reduction and house-made yogurt. Instead of basic lamb with rice, you get it braised in white wine, and wood-fired with green wheat, toasted almonds and some ouzo-preserved, lemon fennel greens. The likewise progressive wine list showcases all-Greek varietals blowing up the world vino scene, and the dessert menu features sweet finishes like a chocolate semolina halva dripping with enough cardamom syrup and Chantilly cream to please the God (or Goddess) of tastiness. A rooftop deck could be coming soon.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul

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Hours

cafe: opens at 10 a.m. daily
dining room: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Monday; 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday; closed Tuesday

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