It seems paradoxical to describe a gay leather bar as charming, but that's exactly what comes to mind with Touche, a Rogers Park establishment that's been open for 30 years. Touche tends to cater to an older, more casual crowd, unlike its kissin' cousin, the Jackhammer, or skeezy aunt, the Granville Anvil.

Modest and inconspicuous (like most gay bars, Touche doesn't have the luxury of windows), this is a dive that knows what its patrons want—Mr. Saliva contests, 50-cent drafts on Sundays, gear parties and free fortune cookies at the door. But it doesn't balk at any of the less mainstream bar accoutrements. You can knock back a pint of Bud or Berghoff ($2.50-$4) and try your hand at darts or pool (if you're not easily distracted by the gay porn playing on multiple TV screens throughout the bar, that is).

If you're there on an event night and dressed accordingly (in leather, rubber, uniform, boots or jock attire), you can enter the back club room, where the serious fetishists play. Additional theme nights include Bijou Video Wednesdays, when Touche screens classic gay films, and contests like "Leather Eye for the Preppy Guy," which is a chance to indulge those makeover fantasies that haven't quite made it to Bravo. Touche also sponsors local artists' work, which changes monthly. In true dive bar spirit, its ATM dispenses cash in increments of $10, so you know you're never gonna put too big a dent in your wallet here.

Centerstage Reviewer: Anna Pulley