After a near 50-year run in the Palmer House Hilton, the purported creator of the Mai Tai relights the infamous tiki torches of its Polynesian-inspired chain in the Northern corner of the Viagra Triangle. All the filets and chops still permeate about in the same gigantor, Chinese wood-burning oven, with a likewise salvaging of the same 76 signature cocktails, including the Suffering Bastard, should the new locale exude its influence.

The tiki vibe shies away from gimmicks with hearty bamboo seats and white linens, hovered over by black-collared waitresses with flowers in their hair, but certainly no full-blown leis and straw skirts. Basically it's Gibsons Steakhouse on an island honeymoon, dressing dynamite filet mignons in crusts of wasabi and choy sum, and Ahi poke and oyster-led apps. Though there's some pan-Asian fusion in there as well, with both a sushi menu and fruit-fancy curry dishes (banana, currants, apples, etc.).

"Trader Vic" is the nickname of the late Victor Jules Bergeron, Jr., who not only claimed rights to the Mai Tai – "Anybody who says I didn't create this drink is a stinker" – but also popularized dozens of tropical cocktails, of which the aforementioned 76 different creations ($7-$11) are really what this place is all about.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul