In the rapidly evolving neighborhood of Wicker Park, Wicker Well is a sign that there was life on North Avenue before boutiques and high-end restaurants.

Not that Wicker Well hasn't experienced some evolution - for more than 40 years the place was called El Senorial - and maybe wholesale change will eventually seep all the way east to Ashland Avenue, but for the time being Wicker Well gets by with the help of a loyal customer base and a no-frills setting.

There isn't much that's flashy: Cocktails come in plastic tumblers. There's beer on tap but the options are unadventurous. With the exception of two small paintings, the walls are completely unadorned. There are flat screens, but they're more of an afterthought, no more important than the juke box and dart board.

But there are always shot-and-beer specials, the prices are reasonable and the bartenders subscribe to the old-school "chat-if-you'd-like" philosophy. Seating away from the large bar is minimal, but that's to accommodate room for dancing.

What you see is what you get at Wicker Well, and it's the type of bar that's near your place regardless of where around town you live. Recognizing its 'hood-centric nature, Wicker Well has added a few weekly events, both to keep current clientele happy and to get new people to make the trip out. There's karaoke on Thursday, Friday is lesbian night, Saturday has hip-hop dance parties and Sunday features live bands.

Of course, given the ever-changing face of Wicker Park, a regular ol' bar where you can enjoy a cheap drink and a conversation with a familiar face may be destination enough.

Centerstage Reviewer: Alexander Hough