When a business' only bit of decoration is a muted wall mural of a smiley-faced pieorgi surrounded by eggs and a rolling pin, you know it means business. And Alexandra Foods strips it down to the bare (pierogi) minimum: Don't expect shelves of European goodies, a table with chairs for leisurely pierogi munching or even a dusty pile of Chicago Readers.

Instead, you'll come upon a building whose flat gray façade is adorned by personality-free red capital lettering that spells out the rather vague name; walk inside and you'll find a long, clear space between you and the counter that fronts the freezers. But it's not always an empty space, as long lines of in-the-know shoppers come here to get their pierogi fill.

Take your pick from about 15 flavors, including kraut and mushrooms, potato and cheese and spinach. If sweet treats are your thing, opt for blueberry, plum, cheery or strawberry. It'’s a slim $2.70 for a package of a dozen, but buy five to nine packages and spend only $2.40 each; buy 10 or more and you'll knock the price to $2.20. A few addition Polish specialties, like blintzes, Silesian dumplings and uszka, small dumplings traditionally filled with mushrooms, are also available.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz