Though modest in size, Olivia's stocks a full range of products in proportions slim enough to keep everything fresh and crisp. Grab a basket and get your fill of packaged olives by the pound (in country cured black, nicoise, tapas cocktail and green with herbs varieties), chicken sausage, artisanal cheeses (featuring helpful, handwritten signs that point out flavors and smart pairings), Cindy's Kitchen salad dressing, Argo tea, an impressive number of designer barbecue sauces, plenty of soy products and mod drinks like Izze.

The thoughtful selection sets Cascade next to environmentally safe Seventh Generation products, making it easy to grab Ziploc baggies along with your spinach and Scharffen Berger chocolate; a small frozen foods section, rack of magazines worth reading and delicate flower arrangements round out the offerings. When you sidle over to the single checkout area, whose surface is made to look like a bright butcher block countertop, be sure to reach down and grab from the bins of 10-cent "penny candy."

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz