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Diversey (Brown)

The octopus of L stops.

Thursday Feb 03, 2005.     By Centerstage Staff

Lifestyle Feed

Diversey is the octopus of L stops. Located more than a stone's throw from the lake and sandwiched between Belmont and Fullerton's crowded streets, you can head in any one of eight directions to find something to do. We recommend south for sushi, east for Italian and west for that great neighborhood bar. But feel free to ignore us…you'll find something great all the same.

Panhandler rating: Here and there.
Safety rating: During the daytime, you should worry more about all of your money getting spent, not stolen. Buddy up after dark.

Cheap eats
Aloha Grill
In an inventive use of limited space, Aloha Grill uses dramatic lighting, bench seats and island snapshots to inflate its interior. The resulting environment is airy and fresh, not unlike the paradise from which this restaurant’s plate lunch (Hawaiian BBQ) concept draws its origin.

On-the-go patrons will appreciate this fast food alternative. Aloha Grill offers heaping portions and speedy service, as well as prices that call into question the value of a Big Mac meal. Entrees include chicken katsu and fried shrimp, both lightly coated in a crisp, flaky batter. Those seeking a traditional Hawaiian experience must taste the spam saimin (noodle soup), washed down with a can of guava nectar. If you’re still hungry, the scoops of rice and creamy macaroni salad served with each selection ensure you won’t leave without bursting a button.

Late-night locale
Side Street Saloon
A little off the beaten path, the Side Street Saloon is a true neighborhood bar. Most of the people who go there live within walking distance, but don't let that stop you from grabbing a stool if you don't. The beer selection is solid (12 bottles, more than 20 on tap) and reasonably priced; daily specials ease the pocketbook dent as well. Check out Friday's $4 cosmos and appletinis; $3 margaritas and dollar tacos make Monday the perfect night for Mexican. It has fabulous lunches, including homemade soup every day. The full menu features the norms (burgers, wings) and then some, such as potato pancakes with applesauce, tuna caesar salad and a peppered pork chop sandwich. Beyond eats, there are five TVs for watching either sports or game-shows; make use of the darts and pool table as well.

Dinner-date destination
Itto Sushi
It's nice to know that a traditional sushi joint can still go head-to-head with the scenesters that have swayed so many sushi preferences from classic to cutting-edge. And classic certainly describes much of Itto Sushi, from the customary (and always appreciated) warm hand towels given at the meal's start to the quiet but omnipresent server ready to take your order. The seats at the sushi bar are certainly where the action is at...part of the time. A large glass atrium effectively separates smokers from those who refrain, and offers an unobstructed view of Halsted, a good choice for those who don't fixate the majority of their attention on the food.

In this case, you should do. The sushi chefs take obvious care in their presentation. And, while not it may not be the mod wasabi-glazed tempura garnish of sushi-gone-nightclub joints, our plates were simply dressed with cucumber slices, strawberries, cherry tomatoes and a variety of hot sauces. A 40-item, seafood-heavy appetizer list includes kaiso (seaweed salad), miso and gyoza (dumplings) standards, plus a variety of fried fish (soft-shell crab, smelt and flounder, to name a few). Maki fans will have no shortage of creative combinations to choose from; the hot & cold maki, a spicy California roll with tobiko and unagi (eel) on top, is exceptional. Texas maki, infused with shrimp tempura, cucumbers, jalapeno and mayo, has a spicy kick that's easily swallowed by sushi veterans and no-raw-fish-for-me novices.

Best of the nighttime world
The Grand Central
The Grand Central is the latest foray into North Side nightlife by the team that owns the trifecta of Bar Celona, Matisse and SoPo. While bargoers who frequent their other properties will feel at home, they'll also notice some distinct changes. For one thing, The Grand Central is spacious. The two-room setup offers plenty of room to move around, especially when compared with its counterparts (tiny Matisse can feel downright cramped, even on weekdays). Rounded booths line the side wall; retro fans, tiled floors and the eponymous subway tiles on the walls complete the classic vibe that's countered by evenly-spaced flat screen TVs and top 40 tunes reminiscent of any other Lincoln Park sports bar.

The Grand Central's menu is probably too upscale to attach the title "pub grub" to. It’s a yuppie's dream mix of martinis and paninis, rounded out with a decent mix of appetizers, salads and sandwiches. Start out with the strawberry baby spinach salad or the ahi sushi salad, then move on to some zucchini corn quesadillas, Grand Central ribs or roasted red pepper and pesto hummus. The sandwich menu includes a variety of paninis, from prime rib to chicken/pear, a pecan chicken wrap, a shrimp dish, and the requisite burgers. A small selection of entrees (surf 'n' turf pasta and Mediterranean chicken are solid choices) rounds out the menu.

In-the-know spot
Sausalito Restaurant and Martini Bar
True Italian food lovers will want to make sure they keep their eyes peeled for this hidden treasure. Located in the former Zucco's space, the restaurant is under new ownership and has updated its menu and decor. Zucco fans can sleep easy tonight: Sausalito has kept Chef Jose Calzada in the kitchen, giving him a chance to update the menu with a focus on contemporary Italian cuisine. Popular Zucco favorites such as lasagna and rigatoni ricore have remain firmly planted on the menu, joining new entrees such as pan-roasted tilapia and chicken marsala. Though the menu's focus is a contemporary one, it does also offer pizza and fettuccini standbys.

The updated decor's bright yellow walls, colorful drapes and abstract paintings provide a hip atmosphere for enjoying a cocktail. The refreshed restaurant boasts an extended bar and an extensive martini menu. In addition to cosmopolitans and dirty martinis, adventurous drinkers can try the "Diversey Harbor," described as "the dirtiest martini" with its vodka or gin, olive juice and anchovy olive combination, or a "Woo Woo," a mix of peach schnapps, vodka and a splash of cranberry juice. Those with strong livers shouldn't miss Wednesday and Thursday's "martini night" deal, where you can try several versions for only $4.95 each.