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Virtual L: Argyle

Explore worldwide cuisine for low prices around this Red Line stop.
Wednesday Apr 21, 2004.     By Stephanie Kuenn
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

Let's get one thing straight: Argyle is more than just Chinatown, Junior. You can't miss the region's stamp on the neighborhood, obvious from the moment you step off the train and gaze up at the red pagoda that crowns the platform. But to limit its influence to China would be unfair. Its offerings, from quirky Thai restaurants to French-Vietnamese bakeries and pho shops, represent a wider geographical range, while its location, nestled snugly between Andersonville and Uptown, gives the area some Western influence. Cheapskates, take note: You just can't do better than this neighborhood, where almost every restaurant has something delicious available for less than $7 a plate.

Safety rating: A good rule of thumb is that the safety level matches the sun's position in the sky: it's highest during the day and drops aggressively at night. Use your best judgment.

Panhandler rating: It's not too bad, but definitely expect to get a few malevolently shaken coin cups in your face.

Cheap eats
Pho 777

On a cool day (or just a lazy one when you don't feel like cooking), few things will hit the spot like a warm bowl of pho, a beef noodle soup that's basically Vietnamese comfort food. You'll find a few restaurants named Pho Number Number Number along Argyle Street, but Pho 777 is the one to check out. Its fake-wood booths are reminiscent of a Chicago sausage stand (albeit one with a big-screen TV), but the steamy, flavorful soup, filled to the brim with noodles, perfectly cooked beef and veggies will make you forget the less-than-exotic atmosphere in a heartbeat. And with each bowl running about five bones (give or take), you may even go for seconds.

Ba Le French Bakery & Restaurant
A tiny Buddhist shrine welcomes visitors to this French-Vietnamese bakery that Food Network star Bobby Flay cited as one of his must-hit stops in Chicago. Service here is sporadic and indifferent, but one bite of its incredible chocolate croissant and you won't even care. Grab a $2 loaf of fresh French bread to take home, or come in for lunch and enjoy big, spicy sandwiches brimming with chicken and beef that start at $2.50.

In-the-know spot
Thai Binh

It's all in the family at Thai Binh, a Vietnamese restaurant (it's named for a province in North Vietnam) that redefines the mom-and-pop restaurant. The owners' pre-teen daughter seats you, advises you on which dishes to order, answers all your questions, serves you and even brings the check, sometimes with a delay to watch a Lifetime movie on a gigantic TV screen. While the entrees are just a bit on the bland side (the exotic pork is tasty, but misnamed), the hot and sour soup is not to be missed. Of course, the food's not the main attraction. Rather, it's the quirky atmosphere, which is only enhanced by cut-out photos from Asian vacation brochures, Chicago Bulls posters and cheery Christmas lights.

Sun Wah Bar-B-Q Restaurant
Don't be scared off by the selection of meat hanging in Sun Wah's front window. While it's a bit awkward to see your food before you're seated, you'd be missing out on the finest Chinese barbecue in the city. You can't go wrong with any of the roast-meat-over-rice dishes, particularly the soy-sauce chicken. Keep it in mind during holidays, too. For just $1 a pound, they'll roast a turkey for you. The atmosphere's a little on the spare side, but the food's so outstanding, you won't even notice. Of course, you've got to be a carnivore to eat here, so vegetarians may want to head somewhere else.

Dinner-date destination
La Donna

A few blocks from the L but still south of the main Andersonville strip on Clark, you'll find the charming La Donna (pronounced with a long "o"), an affordably priced Italian place that gently whispers "date night." The soft lighting and subdued atmosphere make it a perfect place to make like Lady and The Tramp and slurp some pasta together, though you'll want to choose higher-end interpretations, like pumpkin ravioli or anything with a vodka sauce. Try to get a seat by the window on the second floor, which overlooks Clark Street and adds even more romantic touch to the evening. While its 11 p.m. closing is earlier than it used to be, La Donna is also a delightful choice for late dining, and as a bonus, it's less crowded after 9 p.m.

Where to chill
T's

All this exotic ethnic experience is great, but sometimes you just really want a burger and a martini (though probably not together). You'll find both of these things at T's, a neighborhood gay-friendly bar located a few blocks west of the Argyle stop at Winnemac Avenue and Clark Street. Its comfy couches, decent appetizers and sandwiches, and pool tables make it the best choice for post-work drinks or hanging out on the weekend. It's a relaxing place to catch a baseball game or a round of bar trivia on occasion, too.

 

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