At the north end of the Red Line sits a small area that feels part bohemian, part old school Chicago and part French Quarter on a dark foggy night. Walk along narrow brick streets lined with seedy bars, taverns and little-known theaters on one side and the elevated L platform on the other and you’ll discover one of Chicago’s best kept secrets. Morse ranks among the last few areas where artists roam free, vegetarians and vegans dine in the sunshine and locals can grab a $2 beer without a care in the world.
Panhandler rating: Pretty high, but harmless.
Safety rating: It’s not a good idea to walk around alone at 2 a.m. Keep your head out of the clouds and you’ll be ok.
In-the-know spot
Heartland Cafe
Whether you’re looking for music, healthy eats or earth-friendly soaps and lotions, Heartland has you covered. Musicians appear from time to time on a small stage in the main dining room where dishes like seitan burritos, fried green tomatoes and veggie chili are served along with fresh juices and imported beers. There are plenty of options for non-vegans and vegetarians, including BBQ wings and stuffed buffalo roast. Whatever your dining persuasion, the too-good cornbread is (or at least should be) a must on ever diner’s plate.
If you’re just hanging out in the bar area, try a filling Oatmeal stout or Labic Framboise. For another change of location, check out Heartland’s store, which offers books, incense, lotions, soaps, knickknacks and a few animal-friendly garments. Art, mostly political works, is on sale throughout the indoor dining room. During the hot summer months the inside empties out and the outdoor patio comes alive. And yes, it’s one of the best in the city.
Where to chill
DJ's Ranch
Hang out with the locals until 2 a.m. without a care in the world. It doesn’t matter what you look like, what you’re wearing or whether you have two or 20 bucks in your pocket: you can always find a beer to drink and somebody to talk to at DJ’s. For a true tavern experience, grab a PBR and throw some Pink Floyd on the jukebox. Its location, on a dark, narrow side street, will remind you of the brick streets of the French Quarter.
Cheap eats
J.B. Alberto's
Grab yourself a space in the corner and stare out the window as you chow down on some serious Stuft (that’s right, STUFT) pizza. Standing room only gives this pizza spot a New York-esque feel, though die-hard patrons would argue that it produces a mean pie that’s Chicago through and through. Thin, deep, double deck and stuft pizzas come with your choice of more than 20 toppings, including roast beef, jalapenos, giardiniera, fresh spinach and Canadian bacon. Hot wings with blue cheese dipping sauce make the cut, as well as J.B.’s juicy double “cheeseborger” and BBQ rib-tips, making it a great place to get your greasy fix after a long night of partying.
Best of the nighttime world
Morseland
Morseland’s current incarnation continues to make good on past tradition, adding a solid dose of legitimate nightlife to a largely nightlife-free area. But once you belly-up to the bar and take a glimpse at Morseland’s top shelf liquors, imported bottles like Hoegaarden and Chimay, and cans like Old Speckled Hen and Kirin Ichiban, you’ll understand why it makes the cut. Signature drinks include the mojito, made with Bacardi light rum, cane sugar, fresh mint and limes mulled with soda over ice, and the Grand Cosmo, a mix of Belvedere, Grand Mariner, cranberry and lime.
Red and white wines are also offered, along with a menu that includes appetizers like fried oysters and hearty crab cakes (damn good) and entrees like cinnamon grilled pork chops and crawfish etouffee. Other seating options include stools around the DJ booth, a few private booths near the stage and candle-lit tables near the entrance. Grab a seat and get up close and personal with resident DJs White Russian, HeaVy and Evil Vince, who spin jazz fusion, trip hop, house and soul jazz. Feel free to wander over to the “other side” to play pool or check out art for sale by local artists. No need to worry about parking. Morseland offers a free lot.
For the artiste
Curious Theater
If you’re looking for an intimate theater environment with talented ensemble members, take a look at Curious Theater’s upcoming performances, such as “Turtle,” a play written by one of Curious Theater’s founders, Beau O’Reilly. This theater company also sponsors the Rhinoceros Theater Festival for new artists, apprenticeships for playwrights and a school that offers classes in writing, performance and body work. Formed in 1998, past performances include “My Name is Mudd” at the Athenaeum on Southport and “Legless” at the Curious Theater branch.
No Exit Cafe
Good times are brewing at No Exit Cafe, a host of performances, special events and parties. Originally started in Evanston in 1958, the story goes that sorority girls would be depledged if they were seen in this beatnik hangout. The artistic reputation holds: With an ever-changing calendar of events and a neatly tucked away space, No Exit proves to be that diamond in the rough we all hope to find. Check out the Monday Night Open Mic. There is free parking a few blocks north.
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