It’s difficult not to notice the changes that have slowly transformed the North and Clybourn landscape. Once a slightly more desolate stretch, the area of North running from Halsted to Kingsbury has become a shopper’s mecca, replete with Banana Republic, American Eagle and the mall restaurant extraordinaire, California Pizza Kitchen. Luckily, there’s a hint of integrity left among the neighborhood, thanks to classic locales that provided exceptional food, drink and environment long before any of us had heard of Old Navy.
Panhandler rating: Fairly heavy, but concentrated around the L station.
Safety rating: The Weed Street club congregation guarantees that folks will be out. Imitation is flattery; travel in groups.
Late-night locale
Dragon Room
Too much sake might not be a great idea if you're planning on sticking around for the long haul. This out-of-the-way club's "Drink Dance Eat Sushi" motto manifests itself on three floors. Asian-influenced wall hanging, bright reds and the requisite dragon heighten the intensity of the thumping techno and industrial. While the upstairs tends to be restricted to VIPs, the basement is an equal opportunity lounge. Want the complete Dragon Room experience? Take a break from dancing and stop by the sushi bar for some late night eats, served until 4 a.m. Friday and 5 a.m. Saturday. Expect to find quite a few backless-tank-top-adorned female patrons (sipping cosmos) and velvet-shirted male patrons (chugging Amstel Lights) dancing to a Euro/techno-hip-hop soundtrack.
For the artiste
Steppenwolf Merle Reskin Garage Theatre
Sure, you know all about Steppenwolf. But are you down with its hipper, younger sister? Considered a “point of entry for a new generation of theatre artists,” the Steppenwolf Garage is in tune with emerging voices. Expect the latest work from young actors, directors and writers in an intimate performance space, but don’t expect garage band quality. The current show, “Theatrical Essays,” was created by ensemble cast member Tina Landau, who directed the much-touted mainstage performance of “Berlin Circle” several years ago. If the quality isn’t enough to grab you, the ticket prices should; expect to pay less that $15.
Where to chill
Goose Island Brewing Co.
If one glance at the giant beer vats doesn’t make you want to pull up a chair and stay awhile, then something just isn’t right. No good Chicagoan should be able to resist locally brewed beers, and more than 10 freshly made ones on tap at that. The wooden bar and tables along the walls are classy and evoke the feeling of a German inn, though the free wi-fi access is anything but quaintly European. The food is hearty and caters to beer drinkers (a section titled "Beer Cuisine" features fish n' chips, steaks, meatloaf and pot roast). The beer is the real treat, however. If you can’t pick just one, opt for the three-beer sampler. The truly adventurous can work toward their MBA (Master of Beer Appreciation), a designation you achieve after earning 42 “credits.”
Dinner-date destination
Vinci
Patrons praise the “beyond attentive” service at this rustic Italian country ristorante. The spacious bar up front, which offers a hearty wine list for under $8 a glass, moves at a comfortable pace; arrive early and enjoy a glass before dinner. The dishes really are as good as they sound, making your choice a difficult but guaranteed one.
Start with the salsiccia alla griglia, grilled fennel-porcini sausage with braised borlotti beans and escarole, or the polenta con funghi, grilled polenta with Portobello and cremini mushrooms in a porcini mushroom broth. Several gourmet pizzas transform a greasy indulgence into a classy choice. Pasta (such as farfalle with roast duck, Tuscan cabbage and parmigiano), vegetarian, meat and seafood entrees round out the menu. Finish with one of the exceptional desserts; the zucotto, a dome-shape cake with dark and white chocolate filling, raspberry sauce and pistachios is a standout.
Best of the nighttime world
Boka
Across from Steppenwolf and just a stone's throw from the Royal George, the pre-theater crowd raves about this trendy lounge and restaurant. The dark, intimate dining room is inviting for both couples and groups, while the contemporary coastal menu tempts the palate with crab cakes, venison, pork chops and an extensive oyster selection. But the sexy wine list is what really makes this an A-list spot. Engaging in a playful battle of the sexes, Boka's wine list features wines from both male and female winemakers, and keeps tabs on which sex is more popular.
But there is no he-said, she-said when it comes to rating the seafood. From scallops to salmon, Chef Giuseppe Scurato masters coastal cuisine by adding interesting spices and side dishes, like the especially tasty blue cheese potato gratin. The waitstaff completes the experience with near-perfect timing and a passion to guide patrons through the menu, striking a subtle balance that not only makes Boka very refined, but also relaxed.
Cheap eats
Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Hot tapas, cold tapas, tapas to go: This cafe has it all. Seared octopus, grilled sea bass and grilled beef tenderloin dot the hot menu, while offerings like smoked salmon and curried chicken fill the cold. Sangrias come in several different varieties, including red, white, mango and champagne, served over ice with freshly diced apples, oranges and lemons. People go crazy over the mango, so head out to the patio and order up a half pitcher for mere $10.95 or a full for only $16.95. If you have a chance, stop by from 3-6 p.m. when Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba offers a daily special of $2 tapas and $2 Bud and Bud Light long necks. That’s right, every day.
In-the-know spot
The Copa
You’ll feel like you’re in a shiny-as-a-new-penny version of the Green Mill (minus the jazz) at The Copa. An early 2004 remodel has rubbed out the space’s former grittiness, and just in time. Well-groomed weekend warriors relax under the spell of popular music booming from the new jacked-up sound system. Past the industrial steel front steps you’ll find a mod yet stubbornly cozy room, long enough to accommodate a lengthy bar on the left.
Martini madness is the name of the game. “Copa” literally means “glass for alcoholic beverage” in Italian and Spanish, and at this place, the cup runneth over quite a few times with a list of tasty ‘tinis. Try the Wienke (raspberry vodka, blue curaçao, lime juice and a drizzle of Chambord), invented in-house by one enterprising bartender.
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