photo: Erin Brereton

"Think about it," says John, the seasoned bartender who, after nine years of service, can't understand why anyone would be curious about the venue's name. He jerks his thumb toward the music stage in the back: "Beat." Then he taps his finger on the menu: "Kitchen."

A mutt among Chicago's neighborhood bars, the Beat Kitchen defies classification, yet remains lovable just the same. Musical acts run the gamut, spanning local, national, punk, all-ages, harder rock, indie and a weekly Monday night sing-along (pub-style!) with the aging, bare-souled and hilarious Pat McCurdy. The bar pours nearly 40 kinds of beer from a theme-less stock that changes frequently; the chef may list a daily special of sweet strawberry-chocolate-currant tamales alongside regular offerings that include a Cajun meatloaf sandwich, grilled Ahi tuna salad with pickled ginger, a page of thin-crust pizzas and a root beer float.

Low-lit booths and bar seating in the dining room lend a speakeasy feel, the above-average bar food is made fresh to order, and the service is friendly and attentive, if a little cheeky. And it's cheap: entrees range from $8-$12, call cocktails are $5 and domestic beer gets as low as $2.

Under new leadership since summer 2005 (it was bought by the owner of Wicker Park's Subterranean), the Beat Kitchen has an upgraded stage, lighting and sound system and now takes a more aggressive approach toward attracting the high-profile acts that were once its standard fare.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Julia Steinberger