Don't let the sweaty, sardine-packed, designer-jean-wearing, 3 a.m. crowd on a Saturday night fool you. Nick's is a serious historical Chicago watering hole. Originally founded at the corner of Halsted and Armitage in 1977, the bar was relocated to Wicker Park during the early stages of gentrification in 1994.

Like any good Chicago institution, there's always a legend. At Nick's it begins with the huge oil painting of a reclining Botticelli-esque nude nicknamed "Peaches" that hangs in the front of the bar. If you examine the painting, you'll find three inky bullet holes riddling the canvas and Peaches' alabaster body. According to one of the bartenders, in the late 1970s a crazy patron got really drunk and was kicked out of the bar. He soon returned with a gun, yelling at Peaches and spraying bullets at the painting while claiming to be her jilted lover.

The California-inspired decor, which includes a grove of palm trees, a flamingo, a monstrous surfboard and paper lanterns, is a nod to owner Nick Novich's California roots.

Because it's one of the few 4 a.m. bars in the neighborhood, late nights can be hellishly hot and you'll have to scream over the crowds at your drinking companions. Yet the huge beer garden, the open brick expanse, the good beer selection and the low rumble of the Blue Line cast a homey charm that draws a eclectic low key group of patrons bearing sleeve tattoos, fauxhawks, backwards baseball caps and dress shirts in early weekend evenings or weeknights.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant