On a nice, warm-breeze day, stepping outside the turnstiles at the 79th Street station on the Red Line, you might catch a whiff of barbecue in the air, or notice a teen or two fisting a turkey drum. The likely source: 79th Street Barbecue, three blocks down. Formerly known as 87th Street Barbecue, the smokehouse's owner saw an opportunity getting out of a lease and setting up camp in a defunct JJ Fish & Chicken, bringing the brand's specialty ribs and wings to West Chatham.

Kitty corner from the CTA's 77th Street garage, expect any given number of clients representing the blue shirt and pants set before their next bus out. An army of faithful folks, from the Greater Omega M.B. Church, stop in Sunday afternoons; and if it weren't for a boarded up West Chatham Plaza directly across the street, the doors at 79th Street Barbecue would smoke away any slow day.

The setting leans on a modest, in-and-out side. A green facade reflects the flock of monk parakeets chirping noisily while fluttering above, much to the delight of first-time witnesses. Inside, black-and-white tiles lay below the few tables provided for sit-in diners. However, with a spacey lot, and right off the Dan Ryan, we assume most visitors come on wheels taking their meals to go, like television journalist Bill Curtis. He enjoys his rib sandwich on wheat bread every time.

The menu, acting manager Craig Johnson explains, contains only the tenderest meats. Options include catfish, perch and chicken, among others. The staff here understands the options elsewhere, thanking patrons for their business in a sign overhead. Johnson affirms their loyalty of 79th because of the difference in taste. "It takes skill to cook this way, on an open flame ... for the food not to be burned," he says. "It's like experiencing the Taste of Chicago – only better."

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez