Literally housed in a house in Ukrainian Village, A Tavola is best known for its intimate dining space (only 56 seats) and mastery of the art of gnocchi. The miniscule amount of space makes a smoking section impractical, and diners don't seem to mind. The nicotine smell would take away from what brought most of them in the door: the gnocchi.

Well documented by food critics throughout the city, the gnocchi is definitely a bold bullet in the resume of owner Daniel Bocik; the delight comes tossed with tomato sauce, pesto and the requisite Parmesan cheese. Other dishes on the menu change daily. The basic format is three appetizer, pasta and entree selections each. Diners can select from four side dishes. Cuisine is northern Italian and a Tuscan red Brunello di Montalcino is the house favorite, but an extensive wine list is otherwise available.

More adventurous diner should make reservations for the Monday night cooking class (6:30–9:30 p.m. one to two times per month). Participants can learn an Italian specialty dish and then eat their creation for $50.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robin Wright