Accanto owner Maria Rubino is back in her native Logan Square, following in her family's footsteps — well, sort of. Next to the pizza joint Lucky Vito's, which is owned by her parents, on Milwaukee Avenue near the Congress Theater, Accanto opened in April 2010 and, let's just say, it's no pizza joint.

Fine dining has invaded the still-working-class northwest-side neighborhood, and these prices, and quality, may be a sign of things to come. Accanto features a posh dining room and banquette-style seating area with plush white walls and antique mirrors, and southern Italy-inspired food that will make you scream "Mama Mia!"

With her, Rubio brought executive chef Domenico Acampora, a Milan native who said goodbye to the Four Seasons in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, to bring his "creativity and uniqueness while combining legendary Italian elegance with international tastes and flair" to Chicago. Acampora's menu is divided between I Freddi (cold starters), I Caldi (hot starters), Le Zuppe (soup), Paste & Risotti, Il Pesce (fish), La Carne (meats) and I Dolci (dessert). You wouldn’t go wrong with the lobster bisque or the short-rib risotto.

The place is BYOB for now, though Accanto also stocks an extensive list of wines and cocktails.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Jacob Wheeler