Perhaps the decorator was a little overzealous with his sky-high seaweed sculptures towering over bright red banquettes and flat-screen TVs projecting scenes from life under the sea, but maybe that's because he'd tasted Agami's sushi. With executive chef Soon Park (formerly of Kamehachi and Sushi Wabi) heading up the chopping and rolling, the menu at Agami is a study in freshness.

Start with the Spicy Tuna Rice Crispy, a blend of Park's special spicy tuna and jalapenos piled onto buttery rice cakes. Park wanted maki flavorful enough to put soy sauce out of business, hence his careful preparation of sauce that give his creations major bite. The signature Agami maki wraps lightly battered spicy tuna, avocado and cream cheese into a spicy soybean sheet, drizzled in creamy wasabi and eel sauce.

The Ocean Drive appears on your plate in star formation; chili oil and fresh lime juice tops the refreshing-as-a-summer's-day combination of tuna, yellowtail, avocado, green bell peppers, cilantro and spicy mayo. Finally, the Green Turtle, molded to resemble the cute and crawling creature, makes sushi more adorable than one would think possible. Top off the exquisite fare with friendly, attentive service and you've got one Uptown sushi spot that will surely stay put.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg