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Hungry diners will discover a delightful array of dining options that go well beyond the 'hood's praised Swedish eateries.

Tuesday Jan 18, 2005.     By Centerstage Chicago Staff

Food Feed

While your regular travels may not take you to Pilsen or Logan Square or the Gold Coast, nearly everyone I bump in to has made a recent trek (or walk across the street, depending on their starting point) to one of Andersonville's great eateries. Peppered along a fertile stretch of Clark Street that runs from Foster to Bryn Mawr, hungry diners will discover a delightful array of dining options that go well beyond the neighborhood's praised Swedish eateries, from quaint breakfast nooks to French Vietnamese fusion to Middle Eastern delicacies.

A Taste of Heaven
File under: Sweet sweets
This cute, homey bakery and coffee house offers Midwestern charm, plus scrumptious sweets and sandwiches. Its newly inhabited space at Clark and Balmoral makes it a convenient stop; there are plenty of tables for meeting with friends. The bakery's wares, baked on site, stand on display at the counter. Teacakes, brownies, cookies, caramel-and-nougat bars: Whatever sweet floats your boat, chances are you'll find it here. If you're looking for something heartier, you can also try homemade sandwiches and pasta. The coffee is a little on the mild side, but when you drink it in-house, it comes in a huge glass mug so you won't miss out on any caffeine.

A Taste of Heaven's staff matches its quaint atmosphere, making it a welcome respite from the typical sullen service you receive at most coffeehouses. They're polite and gracious, willing to answer any questions you might have. This isn't a terribly sexy or sophisticated place, but the food's solid and it's welcoming. As a place to relax while reading the paper or pick up a quick bite for lunch, it really can't be beat.

Andies
File under: Middle Eastern great
If you're a fan of baba ganoush, then Andies should be a regular in your restaurant rotation. Serving Greek, Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine in ridiculously large portions, you'll get more than your fill of tasty eats. The first impression is a good one: It's sunny, with swing-open windows that let in summertime breezes, and filled with white cloth-covered tabletops that immediately house a piping hot basket of exceptionally tasty pita (it's bit more buttery sweet than most). Friendly and accommodating waiters readily offer suggestions, which you may need to take advantage of, considering the menu's range.

Vegetarians will quickly become addicted to combo platters: you can take your pick of offerings like hummus, tabouli, falafel, dill rice, cheese pie, dolma and more. Mediterranean stuffed artichokes, spicy Moroccan eggplant and vegetarian mousaka are a few more of the nearly 20 veggie entrees available. On the meat end, the spicy chicken jo jo kabob (opt for seasoned couscous) is exceptionally tasty, and sits alongside great lamb, beef and seafood dishes. Whatever you decide on, be sure to pair it with (surprisingly enough) a margarita, which can be summed up with a simple "killer" and "mmmm."

Angel's
File under: Eats for everyone
Picky eaters, rejoice. Angel's offers an eclectic menu that would put most diners to shame. Though the restaurant has a definite Mexican bent, beyond the huevos rancheros and molcajete is a menu filled with blueberry pancakes, grilled chicken Casear salads, Denver omelets and Philly steak sandwiches. For a breakfast-anytime pick, try the All-Man French Toast, dipped in special batter and grilled with almonds. The 1/4-pound lean beef burgers are always a solid choice and can be customized with your choice of cheeses, spinach, bacon, avocado, onion rings, mushrooms and olives. The food is tasty and reasonably priced, with virtually nothing over $10.

Immediate hunger is sated with a complimentary basket of crispy homemade tortilla chips and salsa. Wine glasses appear readily for any patrons who cleverly remember that the only thing the menu excludes is alcohol; the BYOB policy ensures that the meal won’t break the bank. While skipping dessert won’t have you missing anything, do try the popular Sunday brunch. A great spot for a casual date, the brightly-colored green and burnt orange walls glow against soft tea lights as the evening progresses for a pleasantly intimate feel.

Cafe DaDa
File under: Coffee and crepes
Although the name references an art movement based on the absurd and irrational, Cafe Dada couldn't be a more straightforward Euro-cafe. The original artwork lining the walls inside this snug but welcoming restaurant doesn't adhere to any Dadaist principles but brings freshness and sophistication to the spot. The slouch-inducing chairs, perky benches and roomy booths also make it the perfect venue for those who appreciate a variety of seating.

Essentially a coffeeshop, Cafe DaDa offers the usual java drinks while providing some adventurous eats. Sure, there's the basic cafe fare, such as soups, salads and sandwiches made with big, round hemispheres of homemade bread. But there are also pies, crepes, pizzas and calzones. The DaDa pie is basically a flour-based quiche with a variety of vegetables and meats atop it; the most basic version is the Kvrgusha, adorned with chicken, onions and cream. Two types of crepes are also available, one a meaty and veggie type and the other a straight-up delectable dessert version made with either berries and cream or a Nutella concoction that includes hazelnuts and bananas. Personal-sized pizzas round out the menu along with the pizza's bashful, more self-contained cousin, the calzone. Free wi-fi, and BYOB.

Corner Grille
File under: Bright breakfast nook
Corner Grille aims to be a neighborhood gathering place with cuisine that's a little more ambitious than anything you'd find at corner hot dog joint. The yellow-and-orange color scheme, roomy booths, Formica tables and sleek lighting give the place a '50s-meets-IKEA feel that's pretty welcoming, although a goofy cartoon mural on the wall seems out of place. The menu strives for high-end diner greatness and often achieves it, using ingredients usually reserved for classy establishments, like free-range chicken or a champagne-based vinaigrette. Salads are crisp and green; you won't get stuck with the heart of an iceberg head here. Even burgers become an event. Try the blue-cheese bacon burger, which doesn't skimp on the cheese, making it a tart, tasty treat that's pretty filling, too.

M. Henry
File under: Best for brunch
Located just south of the juncture where Clark diverges from Ashland, this sunny, pleasant brunch nook offers a good reason to get out of bed in the morning. The interior is artsy and fashionably fun, bounded by bare brick walls and accented with suspended antique window frames that lend a sense of intimacy to an otherwise airy, open dining room. Service is friendly and attentive, even on the weekends when locals crowd the small entryway waiting for a table for brunch.

But the real draw is the food. Take breakfast, for instance. The menu pleases and surprises with a range of standard morning offerings that are given a fresh appeal with an injection of gourmet creativity. If you like eggs benedict, why not try M. Henry’s twist, a salmon benedict, complete with a dill hollandaise sauce? Patrons with a sweet tooth will find much to love as well: The menu boasts a tempting array of pancakes and French toasts (including the renowned dulce banana rumba French toast). Options expand on weekends with an extended brunch menu, which includes a scrumptious, orange-infused Grand Marnier French toast.