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There's more than May flowers popping up around Chicago.

Tuesday Apr 19, 2005.     By Centerstage Chicago Staff

Food Feed

Per usual, we're about to make you privy to the latest and greatest restaurants to grace the Chicago scene. From closer-to-the-Loop Indian to still more sushi, it's hard to keep up, but it sure is tasty to try.

Indian Grill
File under: Indian south of Devon
No need to fret that they're dumbing down the spices this south of Devon. The chicken vindaloo will get your tongue wagging, though not all dishes are fiery. The paneer makhani, a homemade cheese simmered in creamy tomato sauce, is sure to sate a mild palate, or choose from one of many tandoori dishes, this restaurant's specialty. Each night chicken, lamb and seafood are skewered and plunged into the charcoal-fired clay oven; the searing temperatures trap natural juices inside so food comes out deliciously moist through and through.

Vegetarian friends will revel in fresh spinach, eggplant, lentil and kofta dishes. The whole gang can munch on complimentary papadum while waiting for orders to arrive. These oven-baked lentil wafers and their sweet and spicy chutneys are the tasty Indian equivalent to pre-meal chips and salsa. Expect to pay $8 to $15 per entree. Daytime specials run a few dollars less. The weekend lunch buffet is $8.95, but your best bet is to wait for nightfall when live sitar music is featured most Friday and Saturday nights.

Osteria Via Stato
File under: Fancy family-style Italian
With the awards (Best New Restaurant 2005 in Chicago magazine) piling up and the rave reviews pouring in, it's a bit of a surprise to walk into Lettuce Entertain You's newest baby, Osteria Via Stato, and not see crowds of rabid diners packing the heavy wooden tables. Chalk it up to a late lunch arrival, because it can't be because of the Italian family-style food; the brilliant, cost-effective concept; or the country farmhouse mixed with a business-in-the-big-city atmosphere.

At lunch you pay $17.95 for what Osteria dubs a two-course meal. At dinner you just double the price ($34.95) and get another course added into the mix. It's a simple, budget-friendly way to try several rotating entrees. The portion size is along the lines of, "let's start small and if you want more, we'll bring it to you." (All except for the entree; you only get one serving there). The seasonal entrees change frequently, but most of the fishes are delicious (the pan-seared halibut in fennel and a light tomato jus was fantastic), as are the pastas (the homemade cavatelli with fresh green peas was featherlike and almost like an Italian version of chicken and dumplings). With a neat "Just-bring-me-the-wine" option for tasting different wines for a fraction of the bottle cost ($15 or $28), the bill just keeps getting lighter.

Oysy
File under: Delicious, literally
There are a lot of great things that need to be said about this ultra-modern Japanese bistro, and the fact that its name means delicious when translated into English is just one of them. Other rave-worthy facets include genuinely friendly hosts and sushi chefs; sleek, IKEA-esque decor; hip, ambient music; and prices low enough (usually five to ten dollars per entree) to allow for sampling of a sizable chunk of the menu.

Sushi is, of course, the main attraction at Oysy, but don't let the enormous list of special maki prevent you from tasting the grilled, cooked and tempura entrees that are also available. The grilled steak with garlic miso marinade is tender and full of flavor, the orange shrimp tempura has a wonderful texture, and the sauteed scallop with ginger garlic sauce is worth a double order. If you must feast on sushi, top picks include the Firecracker maki (shrimp, eel, cucumber, avocado, cream cheese, spicy tobiko and jalapeno rolled and deep-fried) and a slightly dressed-up Philadelphia (smoked salmon, cream cheese, masago, asparagus, green onion, avocado and cucumber).

Uno di Martino
File under: Tuscany, for less than a plane ticket
For a taste of Tuscany in the heart of Chicago, head to this locationally challenged little gem. Sitting amidst fast food and cheap eats, the tasty fare here offers an oasis for those looking for a classier dining experience. Owners and chefs Martin and Geronimo Ontiveros personally light each dinner candle and attentively take every order, offering suggestions and delivering excellent service. The dark wood, soft lighting and light orange walls create an atmosphere reminiscent of Italian sunsets in comfy grottos: welcoming and romantic.

For a decadent meal, try the risotto al barolo (creamy Italian rice with shitake mushrooms, chicken breast, green onions, Fontina cheese and Barolo wine) for starters. Fantastic dinner entrees include the pollo rosmarino (a roast chicken heavenly seasoned with garlic, shallots, rosemary and lemon olive oil surrounded by roasted potatoes) and the ravioli carciofi (artichoke-filled ravioli topped with a rich tomato-cheese sauce featuring blue cheese, marscapone and parmigiano). If you still have room for dessert, you can tempt your pallet with gelato, sorbet or delicious Italian favorites like torta di pere or the tiramisu. Be sure to BYOB (there's no corkage fee), and ample seating can accommodate groups of any size.

Volo
File under: Rave-worthy
Young, charismatic owner Jon Young, a 15-year veteran of the restaurant industry (most know him from Kitsch'n fame), steals a little of the culture from Mexico, where he worked for a spell, and noticed that it was simply "a place where the social lifestyle is centered around the meal." Hoping to create the same vibe in Chicago, he dreamed up a place that would serve small plates of mostly organic, rustic food and give diners the chance to try flights of wine (with titles like Spanish Speaking, Warm Fruit and Raisiny and Hot).

Chef/Partner Stephen Dunne (MK, Spago, Rubicon) likes to refer to the menu as "new American," and with dishes like duck confit, crisp potatoes and roasted garlic puree ($13) competing with seared diver scallops with quails egg and American Sturgeon caviar ($16), a melting pot of cultures has indeed been accomplished. Being the smart cookies that they are, the owners plan on changing the chalkboard menu almost daily, featuring seasonal produce and desserts from Hot Chocolate (Mindy Segal's amazing new place in Bucktown).

The prices aren't that high, especially for the quality of food that is being dished up, and until the get their liquor license, a BYOB policy is the house rule. The best part about it is yet to come; this summer, the backyard will turn a dressed up 100-year old patina barn into a cocktail space, replete with cabana beds, an organic garden and wine tasting events, just like the backyard you always wished you had (but could never afford).

Sushi Luxe
File under: Andersonville sushi goes hip
Sushi Luxe gives Andersonville another sushi taste (joining Tanoshii, Hama Matsu and Tokyo Marina), though in this case, it's a chic bite. The low lights, the brushed metallic surfaces, the quirky serving vessels: This place means business. The sushi is among the neighborhood's best, with ambience and food that competes with the like-minded restaurants downtown. The space has been unaccommodating for a few other restaurants that passed through, but it seems the current owners got it right. The dining area is soothing and trendy at the same time, giving you comfortable seating with sleek tables. But that's nothing compared to the bathrooms, easily the best in Andersonville. A sparkling clean and serene place equipped with a flat-screen TV built in to the mirror, these johns definitely have answered the call.

There is a pile of appetizers to choose from; try the osinko moriawase (assorted Japanese pickles) simply because you've never had them. The sushi is excellent and reasonable, with a few chef's inspirations thrown in for good measure. The most costly, the dynamite roll with double tempura shrimp, eel, dynamite scallops and wasabi tobiko, registers at $16. There are also a variety of bento combos in the $15-$20 range that will provide a rounded meal. Sushi aficionados may be disappointed by the plain and uninviting sushi bar; aside from that, purists won't have much to complain about.