Centerstage - Chicago's Original City Guide

Steamer was on bottle duty this time around, and arrived at the recently opened Glenn's Diner, 1820 W. Montrose Ave., with our old standby: the much-drank McManis Cabernet Sauvignon. After giving a silent "oh, rats" at the repeat selection, I soon realized that it was all-too appropriate. The I'll-drink-it-anytime wine has met its match: the I'll-eat-there-anytime Glenn's.

Just steps from the Montrose Brown Line stop, Glenn's Diner is everything it claims to be and more. The menu comes packed with diner favorites, from my grilled-cheese standby to bowls of cereal and omelets. But it's the "more" part that's truly attention grabbing. Sure, I love the fact that I can get eggs at any hour of the day. But I really love that what's served is grade AA eggs, top-notch bacon and cheese that's not processed gunk.

As swayed as Steamer and I were by the reuben sandwich, like properly trained fish lovers our eyes went straight to the blackboard of daily specials from the deep. Owner Glenn Fahlstrom, who put in his fair share of time at the Davis Street Fishmarket, was wise enough to add seafood to his roster...at prices that won't sink you.

While happily sipping our Cabernet, we munched on "the world's best shrimp cocktail," two 4.5-ounce giants that we cut into chewable pieces. While they seemed a bit expensive at $9.95, that was the only price we raised an eyebrow at. Meaty scallops came out tender and delicious, and, true to form, I worried about how I'd make room for my dinner while downing packets of Pepperidge Farm crackers.

We stuck with our seafood theme: Steamer sank into a delicious potato-encrusted walleye pike ($13.95), sided by mashed potatoes and very mayo-laced coleslaw. I went with the (only!) $8.95 soft shell crab po' boy, a delight made exactly as it should be: with soft-but-chewy French bread, plenty of perfectly pan-fried crab, lettuce and mayo. We swapped plates furiously, moaned at how full we were, and found the inner mettle to pass on dessert. Which is OK...'cause we'll be back.

Zinny Fandel's tales of living the (mostly) BYOB life are intended to be attempted at home and in the community, preferably at BYOB restaurants.