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Ravenous? Think Roscoe.

The quiet blocks west of Damen are a foodie’s dream.
Wednesday Sep 08, 2004.     By Centerstage Chicago Staff
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

When it’s all about location, location, location, Roscoe Village is prime real estate in more ways than one. Head west of Damen on Roscoe and embark on a virtual grub crawl of eats. We’ve rounded up just about every restaurant to the left of the infamously filling and funky Kitsch’n (anchored at the southwest corner of Roscoe and Damen), including the latest in sushi, indulgent gelato, a vegetarian hot spot and that ever-necessary bar and grill.

Kaze Sushi
File under: Top-this sushi

Bringing an old concept to a new forum, Kaze is taking sushi the way of pizza and ice cream, just with a lot more finesse. Savory toppings adorn a small menu of fresh nigiri; try tuna topped with shitake mushrooms; banana peppers and black pepper on yellowtail; and cheese-, chive- and black pepper-adorned unagi. Cooked dishes (both seafood and non) are also available, as is a thorough of maki, nigiri and sashimi that’s more expansive then most. Offerings include amberjack, yellowjack, striped bass, trout hybrid and horse mackerel.

Brett's Cafe Americain
File under: Best-ever brunch

Charming is the word of choice for this much-loved cafe, whose rosy pink exterior sweetly contrasts a more subdued interior. Choose from varied weekend brunch dishes like cornmeal waffles with Pullman honey, huevos rancheros, a lobster and avocado club, and eggs any style with bacon or ham and roast lemon herb potatoes. Whatever you select, you’ll find it hard to resist a nibble (or gulp) of the “bread basket,” an ever-changing assortment of sweet breads and coffeecake with homemade jam. Latin American and Asian twists bump American-style lunch and dinner eats up a notch; try dishes like a vegetarian sweet potato tamale with sauteed spinach and green beans, and breast of duck with cranberries, port wine and rice pilaf.

Mario & Gino's Ice Cream
File under: Ice cream alternative

Get your sugar fix in an alternate but oh-so-tasty form at Mario & Gino’s Ice Cream, whose restrictive name doesn’t do its offerings justice. While the ice cream, compliments of San Francisco’s Double Rainbow, is certainly stellar, you can also opt for homemade lemon Italian ice and Ciao Bella sorbets (in flavors like green apple, coconut and chocolate) and gelatos of the dulce de leche, apple pie and chocolate chocolate chip varieties. The simple storefront, empty save the long white ice cream freezers and a handful of stools along the perimeter’s old-school tiled counter, also serves shakes (made with ice cream or gelato), banana splits, sundaes and root beer floats.

Village Tap
File under: Great pub, good grub

Like every good ‘hood, Roscoe Village boasts a locals-love-it bar and grill that doubles as a venue for post-dinner imbibing and as a place to grab a quick, cheap bite. Choose from the more than 30 rotating draft beers along the lines of Bell’s Goose Island, 3 Floyd’s and Ace Pear Cider, or try the daily microbeer special ($3 pint; $10 pitcher). Food is unsurprising but does the trick. Take your pick of sandwiches, quesadillas, burgers, burritos and grilled chicken with some subtle twist (you can get your veggie burger Cajun-style, with a side of hummus). Oh-so-smartly, the menu prices include tax, so drunks paying the bill need only elementary school skills.

La Mora
File under: A little romance

For those seeking a conventionally romantic joint, the deep red, curtain-draped walls of La Mora are just right. Start with the samosas (masala mushrooms in fried pastry), followed by breaded pan-roasted tilapia, and topped it off with strufolo (pastry filled with hazelnut chocolate). Other entrees run along the lines of sesame-crusted mahi-mahi with garlic spinach, tandoori chicken, and snow pea paneer with sauteed onion, tomato, cheese and peas in masala gravy with risotto. Much like the menu, the wine list is straightforward but well chosen. Outdoor seating is available in the warmer months.

Turquoise Restaurant
File under: A Mediterranean meal

Turquoise sits pleasantly west of the area’s mild hubbub, making the outdoor tables as private a choice as those in your own (hypothetical) backyard. It dishes up contemporary, authentic Turkish fare in a sleek but minimal environment; the menu, however, isn’t so understated. Start with a simple eggplant salad or sogurme, a more sophisticated combination of smoked eggplant, creamy yogurt, garlic, walnuts and crushed red pepper. Those looking for a Turkish experience can choose from a roster of Mediterranean dishes that includes cop sis kabob (marinated diced lamb with flat bread) and su boregi (homemade dough with feta cheese and fresh dill). The less adventurous will be equally as pleased with more familiar entrees like salt-crusted sea bass and filet mignon.

Piazza Bella
File under: Authentic Italian

More than a dozen paninis, priced at less than $6, make this a smart and filling stop for lunch; try the Panino Calabrese, served with prosciutto, provolone, tomato, lettuce, onion and giardiniera. Dinnertime seats remain the more coveted, though, as couples line up to dine on a large selection of pasta dishes, as well as chicken, seafood, and meat entrees. The fusilli pasta with eggplant, mozzarella, tomato and dry ricotta cheese seems to be a favorite, as does the lemon linguine sauteed in a lemon sauce with shrimp, arugala and cherry tomatoes. A “carefully selected” wine list is also available.

Victory's Banner
File under: Destination: Vegetarian

A perfect locale for extremely sunny breakfast dates, Victory’s Banner breakfast- and lunch-only status is a compelling reason to designate a few daytime hours to stop by. Start your day light with two eggs scrambled with marinated tofu and your choice of two veggies, served with rice. Those looking to indulge should latch onto the many pancake varieties, like cakes stuffed with bananas and toasted walnuts. Lunch options span the range of desired tastes, from the simple peasant’s lunch (an almost indulgent serving of a bowl of soup and two slices of warmed bread with goat cheese and pesto) to nachos supreme to the smoky chicken wrap (made with soy chicken, natch).

El Tinajon
File under: Go Guatemalan

If you’ve never had Guatemalan cuisine, you won’t regret trying it here. Delicious tamales, burritos, chile rellenos, tostadas and tacos keep good company with less familiar dishes like pepian antigueno (Mayan chicken stew with potatoes and green beans) and tostaditas con salpicon (beef marinated with onions, mint leaves and lime juice on corn tortilla chips). Vegetarians (and non-vegetarians alike) will delight in the selection of six vegetarian combination platters. One warning about the salsa served with the free basket of chips: It’s incredibly addictive, and perhaps the best in Chicago.

Thai Linda
File under: Unfussy Thai

A great place for groups who need to grab a meal before heading out for the night, this family-owned restaurant serves up fresh dishes, including specialties like duck, deep-fried catfish, and light and tasty lemongrass chicken. Kick things off with a handful of appetizers for the table (most priced near $4); the Thai Linda veggie dumpling and fried tofu are wise choices for both vegetarians and meat lovers. You’ll find no lack of rice dishes, noodles and curries (try the red curry with pineapple) to choose from. All entrees can be prepared with tofu, chicken, pork, beef, or vegetables ($6.95), as well as shrimp or calamari ($8.95), and seafood or scallops ($9.95).

Kitsch'n
File under: Groovy grub

The icon on the eatery’s logo, a nameless hipster with a perfectly coiffed afro, sunglasses and a soul patch, is the ideal personification of the grooviest spot in Roscoe Village. Funk meets comfort when it comes to the menu, where even the salads are hearty (something you’ll find a very good thing after your first bite of the spinach, feta, mandarin orange, caramelized onion, bacon and pecan-laden option). Other solace-through-food eats include spinach lasagna, not-your-mom’s meatloaf, drunken coconut shrimp and a veggie falafel pita sandwich. Drink specials run Tuesday-Sunday; retro cocktails include electric “cool-aid” frozen margaritas (one of these should help your game), Tang martinis and purple haze Skyy lemonade.

 

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