Aphrodite popped out of one. Casanova slurped them by the dozen. And Roman slaves died by the thousands to procure them. Oysters, a great gastro-equalizer, once made up the humble diet of the impoverished masses, but despite its populist nature, it remains the ultimate pursuit of wealthy connoisseurs world-round.
Whenever someone shoots the ancient adage, "The world is your oyster," my way, I start to salivate a little. In fact, I'm pretty sure that our species developed opposable thumbs in order to dig into these salty little treasure boxes, so I set out to find Chicago's greatest establishments for oysters.
Pacific Oyster Shooters at Sai Cafe
Sai Cafe regulars start every meal off with a plump Seattle oyster, marinated in a special sauce alongside scallions and fish roe. The appetizer ($9) is just a little too big to throw back like a shot, but this works out well for raw fans, who have more time to enjoy the cold, salty goodness of the Pacific mollusk. What's in the sauce? They're not telling, but whatever it is, it has just the right amount of kick.
Oyster Po-Boy at Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop (Hyde Park)
Few things embody the cuisine of the Big Easy like a good po' boy, and nothing fills out this southern staple quite like a pile of fried oysters. In fact, oyster po' boys are so beloved in Louisiana that they've earned the nickname "Peacemaker," which is said to stem from 19th-century husbands returning from a late night; they'd present the submarine to angry wives as a peace offering. That's quite a history to live up to, but this tiny Hyde Park eatery has earned the nod of approval from many New Orleans transplants. Served on a crispy French baguette with spicy remoulade, this sandwich, at $9.25, is all heart (and bivalves).
Oysters Rockefeller at Nick's Fishmarket
This classic dish is said to have attained its captain-of-industry moniker when a customer, upon trying the New Orleans creation for the first time, exclaimed "This is as rich as Rockefeller." The original recipe (From the French Quarter's Antoine's) is well kept, but many foodies insist that the secret was in the absinthe. Yup. Aphrodisiacs paired with a hallucinogenic: Louisiana knows how to party. Nick's take on the hedonistic dish ($14) involves creamed spinach, bacon, smoky Boursin cheese and just a splash of Pernod, a brand of the licorice-flavored liquor pastis.
Galgun at Chicago Kalbi Restaurant
Served with a soy-vinegar dipping sauce, this lightly battered oyster patty ($9) will make a believer out of anyone. Basically, the Albany Park eatery applied the golden rule: People won't turn up their noses at oysters if you fry 'em up. The result lies somewhere between an omelet and a pancake; it's crispy, glistening and unbelievably addictive. Since the dish is a mainstay of Taiwanese street cuisine, diners might think that a Japanese/Korean BBQ joint might have a hard time hitting the mark—and they would be wrong.
For those who want to go raw...
One of the greatest benefits of this whole "world getting smaller" thing is that landlocked folks need no longer fear seafood. Chicagoland raw bars are flying in mollusks from all corners—all year long. From Washington to Rhode Island, oysters bring the terroir of their hometowns with them; specimens from the Pacific Coast tend to be sweet, fruit-scented and generally milder than their briny East Coast brethren, making them perfect for newbies. While purists swear against any accoutrements on the half-shell, most raw bars offer sundries like Worcestershire, saltines and cocktail sauce. This writer recommends a squeeze of lime, a dash of hot sauce and a smear of horseradish.
Fulton's on the River
If it's your first plate of these primal, salty devils head to Fulton's. Prices vary depending on the market, but they never stray too far from the outrageously expensive.
Davis Street Fishmarket
For a slightly more affordable dozen, head north to Evanston's Davis Street. Twenty-two bucks will get you twelve new friends and a little Oyster 101.
Hugo's Frog Bar & Fish House
Gin martinis, live jazz and ala carte oysters ($2 per) make this River North bar hard to resist for a classy cocktail hour.
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