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Quintessential Summer Eats

Make the most of the season by indulging in the must-have eats.
Monday Jul 23, 2007.     By Michael Nagrant
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

photo: Michael Nagrant, pictured: Mario's Italian Ice
Ride south to 35th and experience the crack of the bat mingling with the sizzle of the grills and draft-pulled beers at Cellular Field. Hound after the scent of tangy relish-topped dogs up north at Superdawg, or heed the metallic jingle out west to Humboldt Park, where elotes carts peddle corn coated with lime, chili powder and creamy mayo. No matter where you live in the city, summer in Chicago offers a feast of culinary tastes, smells, sounds, sights and textures. For the quintessential summer experience, read on.

Chuck that Slurpee and get your icy treats at Mario's Italian Lemonade
This old-school Taylor Street stand finds old men in porkpie hats settled beside neighborhood families, UIC students and Bugaboo-stroller-toting parents, all here on the same mission: ordering a cup, or a bucket, of snowy Italian lemonade, tinged with lemon slices or toothsome chunks of cantaloupe and watermelon. Come August, a short run of peach draws a madhouse of a crowd. Don't wait too long to visit this joint because owner Mario "Skippy" DiPaolo, son of the original owner, likes to close for the season on a nice hot day in early September, making sure folks long all winter for another taste of the sweet ice.

Get your pork chop on at Jim's Original (Maxwell Street)
While the stand itself isn't original, there's no better or more historically interesting spot to score a late-night hangover helper after you take in the last notes of blown-out bop at the Green Mill or Velvet Lounge. Sure it might make for a long cab ride, depending on where you started your night, but where else can you score meaty bone-in pork chop sandwiches and beefy, garlicky Polishes overflowing with a tangle of glistening, caramelized onions and pickled jalapenos?

Drive in for encased meats and super-thick shakes at Superdawg
If The Fonz dropped by for a bite to eat, there's no question this classic drive-in weiner palace, with its anachronistic car-hop service, Vegas-style neon lights and rooftop hot dog mascots, would be the place to take him. One bite of the beefy franks topped with tangy pickled green tomato, nuclear green relish and the usual toppings, and he'd be rocking the thumbs-up sign behind his upturned leather jacket collar. Just as iconic are the cement-mixer-thick chocolate malts and pineapple shakes.

Make a sweet surrender over turtles and ice cream at Margie's Candies
The common thread of quintessential summer eats seems like an abundance of neon, and the familiar buzzing from the orange logo of this Bucktown ice cream joint makes this spot no exception. On most summer nights, lines wrap around the corner, as patrons fill out the scattered plastic patio chairs on the sidewalk. Folks come here to dig their greedy silver spoons into the ceramic clam shell bowls filled with softball-size scoops of ice cream, studded with vanilla wafers, while listening to tunes on the tableside jukeboxes. The legendary 25-scoop Royal George (named after the late owner, George Poulos) can feed a whole little league team.

Endure the Italian beef Nazis at Johnnie's Beef
Sure you could go to Al's, but then you miss out on the beef Nazi-like behavior at this Elmwood Park staple. The front door instructs patrons to keep it closed, which on hot summer nights, sometimes causes fights between the customers jockeying for a spot near the air conditioner. Once inside, if you ask for cheese, the staff will likely stare you down, or at best, laugh hysterically. When you come here, count on ordering strictly beef, with gravy, giardiniera and sweet peppers, or spicy Italian sausage links, one of the best we've found at any beef stand in the city

 

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