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Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts Entertainment Chicago Illinois
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The Choicest Chicken
Misty finds the tenderest bird around at an unassuming Middle Eastern storefront.
Monday Oct 15, 2007.     By Misty Tosh
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

Holy falafel!
photo: Misty Tosh
What is it with Middle Eastern restaurants and their pizzazz with chicken? It seems that no matter which of these eateries I happen upon, the chicken is always on fire, tasting like the most succulent piece of meat ever. But that being said, I may have found the granddaddy of all fast food-style Middle Eastern joints. In fact, I'm quite positive that Cedar Grill is my new favorite, the one I'll be daydreaming about when all I have in the fridge is an apple and peanut butter.

A little secret I stumbled across as I was cruising down North Clark, this jewel caught my eye when I spied a giant hookah in a dusty window; that was all it took to pique my interest. I wasn't sure if the place was abandoned (it just seemed so barren from the outside), but I immediately flipped my truck around and grabbed a primo spot directly out front, so I could get a little closer view. After noticing a handful of people inside at the long counter cradling the open kitchen, I wandered in, grabbed a menu and set to ordering.

Hooray for hummus!
photo: Misty Tosh

Meat dishes filled the menu, but when I questioned the chef on which particular one to order, he adamantly pushed the chicken, telling me it was unbelievable. Fine. Done. I then managed to shock him a bit with my exuberant exploration of the appetizers. Sure, bring me baba ghanouj, some of those fried spinach rolls, a plate of falafel and why not throw in some hummus just for the hell of it?

I had just sat down and was digesting the environment (needs some music, could use a revamp of the decor, and what's up with those slot machines just outside the toilets?) when my lovely waitress swings over with her skinny arms loaded. First up came the spinach rolls, which seemed to be no more than spinach stuffed into some sort of eggroll wrapper and lightly fried. They were simple but alarmingly tasty. I tucked into the silky smooth servings of hummus and baba ghanouj next. Both were beautifully presented (especially for a no-frills kind of place) and exquisite. It seemed like they were made to order, though I couldn't be certain. After a few minutes, out came a salad. Nothing more than lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and a bit of oily dressing, it was a nice crunchy surprise that comes on-the-house with every order. I was just making my way through the fantastically crispy little falafel balls when my entree arrived.

Chicken time
photo: Misty Tosh

Of course, I was already stuffed to capacity, but when the chicken hit my place setting, I became so enamored with its chunky glory that I had to partake. It was everything that I expect chicken not to be: tender, fragrant and juicy beyond belief. I was pleased as punch just staring at my plate of food; every bite that I created (hunk of chicken, scoop of fluffy rice, snag of pickle) was to die for. I ended up having to take three to-go boxes home (my belly can only handle so much) and feasted for the rest of the week on my leftovers. That makes two things the Middle Eastern eateries have perfected: chicken and beefy portion sizes. I love 'em for both.

The Final Rave: I was terribly devastated that there were no desserts on offer. Maybe next time?

Keep it going:

Do it: Mataam Al-Mataam
Some folks say the food here is a little dry, but where else will you find pretty dang good kabobs available 24 hours a day?

Investigate it: Jaafer Sweets
This spot ships sweets and makes sugar-free treats. The tidy shop is clean as a whistle, and it's worth a stop in any time of day.

Eat it: Salam
This "blink and you'll miss it" fast food-style restaurant in Albany Park has the best falafel sandwich ever. And, it costs only about $3 even.

Get crazy with it: Al Khayameih
This Middle Easter grocery store is chock full of my favorite thing in the world: homemade sweets. The adoring baker even tried to pawn me off on her single son in Israel. Really, is that what it's gonna take to find a good man? A full move to Israel?

Fatcake Misty Tosh explores back-alley eateries, holes-in-the-wall and seedy ethnic joints as she treks the city in search of the next raving dish. Join her in the quest.