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La Finca had her at the chips.

Monday Oct 17, 2005.     By Misty Tosh

Food Feed

La Finca had me at the chips. The basket, plopped on my table, was toppling with the best tortilla chips ever made, those thin, crispy ones. You know, the ones that seem to be made from five layers of phyllo-like tortillas crammed on top of one another, fried perfectly and then served with a bowl of spicy, homemade salsa. It's just so easy to consume a half-dozen baskets, especially when coupled with some frosty margaritas. Those chips are a rare breed among Chicago's hundreds of Mexican restaurants, so once I've found them, watch out.

I have driven by La Finca Restaurant close to a million times and never once thought to slow down and sample the fare (I was thinking it was going to be just like most other Mexican restaurants, with half-way decent fare, too-thick chips and watery margaritas). That all changed a few weeks ago, and I can officially say that I no longer have to make the trek to Wholly Frijoles in Lincolnwood to get awesome Mexican food; I've got a new margarita buddy right in my own 'hood.

I really can't waste much wordage describing the place (though it is a lovely little cafe, the outdoor patio is one of the city's best kept secrets), because there is so much to tell about the incredible food. The name means, "estate", as in "like a country estate serving up home-cooked meals from the warm kitchen," says the owner/waitress.

I went in balls out, simply prepared to blow off my entire day and swill blended margaritas all afternoon (why does this seem to keep happening lately?). That plan was going swimmingly 'til I stated catching glimpses of the dishes that were plowing out of the kitchen: gooey chile rellenos with piles of refried beans (made with no lard) and sunset-tinted rice; filete de pescado de veracruzana, thick filets of orange roughy marinated in white wine and literally smothered in a pile of soft mushrooms, whole green olives, buttery onions, stewed tomatoes and spices; sizzling steak fajitas with peppers, onions and mushrooms; bowls of fresh-made guacamole; and plastic cups of full of milky, cinnamony horchata (the first sip could stop time, it's so spectacular). Needless to say, I ordered it all.

I know it seems, week after week, that I am some sort of gluttonous slob, one who cannot seem to control her eating habits and orders every single thing on the menu. In a way, that's a correct assumption. I do order like a madman, but it is only because there are some places where everything deserves to be tasted, sampled, tried, inhaled and simply enjoyed. La Finca is one of those rare establishments, and who am I to deny her?

When my guinea pig and frequent dining companion, Geo, and I polished off the blissful food, I took the owner's advice and ordered up some flan. I'm not a flan fan in any capacity, but she said it was made-from-scratch daily, delicious and sinfully rich. What the hell, bring it on. Can I just tell you that I gasped at the first bite (and the second and the third, and so on). I lost those few remaining wits I do have for a split second and did the only thing that I could...I ordered another.

The Final Rave: Open for 16 years, the place is cozy, sunny, cheap and vegetarian-friendly. The bad news? Closed on Sundays. The good news? Open again on Monday!

Keep on Going:

Read it: Rique's Regional Mexican Food
With a menu that spans the Yucatan peninsula, this North Side haven is one of the more authentic Mexican restaurants in the city (as divey as it is). It also has some damn good flan, and that black bean dip that comes with the chips ain't too shabby either.

Drink it: That Little Mexican Cafe
Though the food is hit-or-miss, the margaritas are good enough to warrant a drive up to Evanston. Make sure you have a designated driver, though: These mamas pack a mighty fine punch.

Eat it: Pollo Campero
The prices are so cheap at this Guatemala-style chicken joint that the antsy line winds out the door, Latin mariachi plays full force in the parking lot and the crispy, fried chicken is doled out by the TON. Order everything on the menu and it's still less than $20 bones.

Get crazy with it: Baja Joe's, La Ventana, Baja
Winter is almost here, but don't think you can't escape. Make like I did this past spring and drive all the way to the tip of Baja (7k roundtrip). Those in the know pit stop at Baja Joe's on the Sea of Cortez and whirl up a margarita in the communal kitchen (just be sure to make enough for you and the horde of randy kite boarders that call this place home in the winter).

Fatcake Misty Tosh explores back-alley eateries, holes-in-the-wall and seedy ethnic joints as she treks the city in search of the next raving dish. Join her in the quest.