With all-the-rage sushi eateries on the rise in this town, it's easy to forget that feasting on raw fish can be a casual affair. Don't get me wrong, I love the hipster sushi scene as much as the next gal. But when I get a craving for spicy tuna maki, I don't necessarily have the patience to get all dolled up first. The solution to such a predicament is Bentonara, where sushi is taken more seriously than style.

With a nice balance of traditional and imaginative sushi items, Bentonara's everything-sounds-great menu brings out my embarrassingly indecisive side. You can't go wrong with basic rolls (tuna, California, eel and so on...), a-la-carte sashimi and not-so-raw entrees like chicken, steak or salmon teriyaki. But prepare to be truly wowed by the list of special maki, like the Cherry Blossom (salmon and avocado, topped with tuna) and the "Go Alex" (tuna, yellowtail, salmon, jalapeno, avocado, cilantro, spicy mayo, chili oil and lemon juice).

Check the board for specials, which change every few weeks or so and make use of seasonal ingredients. In the summer, look for the mango roll (made with yellowtail, shiitake mushrooms, avocado and creamy wasabi sauce and topped with mango, naturally), a heavenly creation that I pretty much haven't stopped thinking about since my last visit.

Centerstage Reviewer: Natalie Goldstein