Swept in neon coral prints and spacious high-back felt two-tops, it's not uncommon to see waitstaff whisk around maki at this Japanese sushi lounge with names like "Ocean Drive" and "White Zen" to the stride of Enya. And for a moment, it works in some voyeuristic, aquarium way, with sunset-gazing opportunities seeping in from across-the-street Chase Park.

River North this is not, though, and when hotate (scallops), sake (salmon) and hamatchi (yellowtail) hit the table, no amount of eye-candy or sake (no liquor license yet) is going to save the subtle flavors of the fish from cream, dynamite and unagi sauces that overcome virtually every roll, nor justify the $3 average per piece of nagiri and sashimi.

But there is plenty on the menu to make it worthwhile. The "Red Dragon" is a well-executed balance of big eye tuna and soft shell crab aside radish sprouts and a calamansi zing of a citrus sauce, the way of sushi. Otherwise, dive a little deeper into the kitchen menu and seek out small-plate gems like bacon-wrapped scallop cakes and artichoke-dressed baked duck for under $10.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul