Though hand-painted skulls harbor tealights along the bar, and managers rock jeans more expensive than their sport coats, this dinner lounge is at its core a shining moment for chef and co-owner Chris Curren (Zealous, Hyde Park Steakhouse), who pairs delectable dishes like butter poached lobster atop polenta cakes and truffle cream corn sauces.

There’s certainly a vibe of pre-club cool going on, with a kitchen that doesn’t close shop until 1 a.m. But that’s the demographic it pulls along the water outskirts of River North. The staff dresses the part, but they’re of the service-minded ilk, completely in tune with what their wine list should accompany, and frequently presenting little on-the-house appetizers from Curren still in eager-to-please, recent-opening mode.

As most places dressed in faux-hip, Blue 13 does have a bit of an upcharge, though it's largely a booze affair, with half of its wine-by-the-glass options surpassing the cost of the aforementioned appetizers, averaging $12 glass. You will pay $32 for roast lamb chops, but trust me, glistening in Asian spices and onion confit, you will be pleased.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul