Pan-Asian is a hard feat to pull off, but judging from my recent dining experience at Evanston's Bonsai Cafe, it seems that Aeksak Hoarae, who hails from Thailand, is on his way toward the finish line.

Located on Central and Lincolnwood, on the hot corner formerly occupied by Taylor Street, Bonsai serves up a mixture of Chinese, Thai and Japanese dishes. Find more than 20 types of maki rolls on hand, including signature roles such as shogun ($10), with sweet potato tempura and cream cheese; and Evanston ($10), a blend of fresh salmon, crab stick and spicy mayo.

Patrons find refuge in the well-appointed restaurant with white paper lanterns, solid wood tables and splashes of red walls. With such a pretty ambience, it's not surprising that prices lean toward the slightly jacked-up side, with most entrees landing around $9.25. But if you consider the portion size (read: ample and perfect for sharing), Bonsai is relatively moderate.

Start out with a bowl of miso soup ($3), the only vegetarian option in the appetizer category. Other starters include Chinese dumplings ($5.75) and Vietnamese shrimp rolls ($6.25). Soup arrives prompt and is as hot as it is tasty. Next up is Bonsai's signature dish - pad Thai, which can be served with tofu ($9.95). Fresh cilantro gives it an extra kick of fresh.

Although chicken, beef, and seafood predominate the menu, all dishes can be ordered with vegetables or tofu in place of meat. And the Kung pao ($9.25) comes with Chinese egg noodles, tofu, blackened chilies, peanuts and sweet and spicy sauce.

Deals include the lunch box special ($8.75), which is an appetizer, maki and entree in the Japanese style. It's served daily from 11 a.m.-3 p.m., with entrees like chicken pad Thai, Kung pao chicken and Mongolian beef. Catering services offers the plethora of office personnel in the area the chance to chow down on some good-to-go Asian grub.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Marla Seidell