At this New York transplant, dinner is truly a social event. Located on the first floor of the Montgomery Ward Building, the restaurant looks like a gigantic ballroom fit for the Titanic, symmetrically designed with red-plush seating and highly defined tile floors. Since it lacks the round tables ubiquitous at most eateries, groups generally sit side by side in rows.
Guests come from all backgrounds; one night, a group of six celebrates a 50th anniversary alongside a gang of stockbrokers in their 30s (the college crowd is noticeably absent). If you haven't made a reservation (you should, at least two to three weeks in advance), expect to wait a few hours coming in off the street.
In addition to patience, bring lots of cash. Meals range from $19-$85 and cater to cravings of all sorts: salmon, tuna, duck, lamb, steak, veal, mussels or organic chicken. The Surf & Turf (tenderloin and Maine lobster) wears the crown for the establishment's most expensive dish. In addition, the menu features a list of exquisite hors d'œuvres like escargot and duck rillettes and raw bar options like the Alaskan king crab cocktail.
Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez
