Bulldog Bakery left its West Lakeview digs in the spring of 2007 for a snug spot in an old Currency Exchange on the eastern end of Avondale. Its tell-tale neon sign blinks OPEN, the "Checks Cashed" and "Money Orders" slogans replaced by an even bolder proclamation: "Good treats for good people."

And while the interior is slender, its loaves of freshly baked banana bread sure aren’t. A small table to the left sells day-old sweets to anyone who can pinch a few quarters together. The day's fresh goodies sit in containers along the marble-topped counter, and, with a name like Bulldog, the de rigueur dog treats sit to the right. But with a tagline that reads "so good, we make humans beg," it's clear that big cookies, not bone cookies, are the main attraction.

You'll find freshly baked danishes, white chocolate and cherry cookies, cupcakes draped in frosting and breads that range from French to pumpernickel. All items are kosher, and they can come light on the sugar to boot, so long as you call ahead; you can order everything from birthday cakes to coconut custard pie to oatmeal raisin cookies in no-sugar-added versions. Homemade peanut brittle comes in both standard (peanut, almond) and untraditional (jellybean, pumpkin seed) flavors.

There are no tables to sit at, which is probably OK: Lest you want to resemble a bulldog, you'll need to walk off the calories packed into these desserts.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz